Replies

1. 
   Henley | Oct 21, 2009 04:27am | #1

   You just lap it and it will be any size you need.

1. 
   casolorz | Oct 21, 2009 07:06am | #2

   I'm not sure I understand. The 72x72 piece seems to be slopped towards the center, how can I just add another piece at the end?

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 21, 2009 01:42pm | #3

   you are talking about their preformed sloped piece and he is referring to their kerdi which comes on a roll. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Henley | Oct 21, 2009 03:44pm | #6

   Sorry for the confusion. Yes, I was talking about the membrane. I'd follow the other poster's suggestion and just pour the pan yourself.
   Much cheaper and simple enough.

1. 
   casolorz | Oct 21, 2009 07:24pm | #7

   I've been a little scared of pouring the pan myself and getting the slope wrong, I might let our builder have one of his people make the two pans and then we'll just do the tiling.

1. 
   Henley | Oct 21, 2009 07:55pm | #8

   It's not that hard to do. This will guide you along the way-http://www.ontariotile.com/kerdi-showerpan.html

2. 
   Mongo | Oct 21, 2009 11:19pm | #9

   Small quibble...deck mud doesn't get poured, it gets packed in place. It's a very dry mix, so packing consolidates it.You pack the perimeter elevation, then you set your drain height, then you fill in the slope in between.You can shave it here and there with the edge of a trowel to remove high spots...you can pack a little extra as needed to fill in the low spots.In a laundry I would not use a Kerdi Tray or any sloped floor. Use Ditra on the flat floor, waterproof the seams with strips of Kerdi, and at the edges, run Kerdi up the wall behind the baseboards. You'll end up with a flat floor to properly set the washer and dryer upon, and a waterproof floor as well.For your best water protection, use a water sensor that automatically shuts off the water supply if water is sensed on the floor.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 21, 2009 02:35pm | #4

   You can extend the preformed pan with dry pack mortar. But if you're messing with the mud anyway, you may as well skip the preformed and just use the mud.

   I suggest a trip over to the John Bridge Forum: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

   Edit: I'm not sure I'd use the preformed foam base for a laundry room pan -- especially if you're planning on a front-loader. I'm not sure if it's stable enough to hold a front-loading washer still during the spin cycle. You may wanna check with Schluter on that. Also, if you're going to have a curb for the pan, I wouldn't bother with the preformed base. I'd just Kerdi or Ditra the pan and tile over it since there's no need for constant drainage like there is in a shower.

   
   

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   Edited 10/21/2009 7:42 am ET by MikeHennessy

1. 
   wane | Oct 21, 2009 03:31pm | #5

   now I'm not sure if he wants the presloped base on just the roll .. if the roll give imper by profix a try, I've only done 1 huge job this way, but it's foolproof (I like that) lap and seal no problem .. I won't be going back to schluter any time soon ..

   ps .. I have no $ to gain by recomending this, it's just really easy to work with!

3. 
   BradG | Oct 29, 2009 08:36am | #10

   Mongo is 100% correct on every point ...

   (didn't want to write "ditto", but, well, DITTO!)