Replies

1. 
   DanH | Apr 18, 2010 06:23pm | #1

   You can use wood and, if you can find it, screen mold, stapled in place.  1x2 for smaller screens, 1x3 for larger ones, and use spreaders on the larger ones.

   One trick is to leave out the spreader when installing the screen, and use clamps or a jig to bow the frame slightly (*).  Then install the spreader with the screen in place.

   (*) Two ways this can be done.  One is to place the frame screen side up on a flat surface, blocks under the top and bottom, and use clamps to bow the middle toward the surface while installing the screen.  The other, more straight-forward, is to use pipe clamps to bow the frame members toward each other.

   Many window shops will make you up aluminum-framed panels to size pretty cheaply, or you can buy the stock and make your own (though not as well, since you won't have the crimpers & such).

2. 
   calvin | Apr 18, 2010 06:30pm | #2

   http://www.quittintime.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/12865/an/0/page/0#Post12865

   At the link above you can see the openings and how I filled them on a screen porch project from last summer.  I built frames approx. 1-1/4 x 1-1/4" .  I grooved the stock, mitred and glued/screwed the corners.  Used spline to fasten the screen.  The groove width and depth is critical in making the install go easy and also to hold well, the screen.

   I have also done some screening on 4x4 columns, making the groove after the posts and cross members were already installed.  A fence on a laminate trimmer with a jig for the corners worked well.

   Your relative narrow width should be no problem considering the almost 6' height.  You will have to fasten the sides of the frame somewhere in the middle if you use narrow stiles like I did.  A wider frame will stay more rigid when you layin and tighten the screen with the spline.

   You'll notice how when placing the spline it rolls into the groove.  Keep the rolling in the direction that "tightens" the screening.  I don't know if it just happens or if you have to consciously keep it going in the tightening direction.  Do the long sides first, then the short sides.

   Best of luck.

3. 
   gfretwell | Apr 18, 2010 09:43pm | #3

   Aluminum is the normal path here. If you are just adding to existing structures you usually use 1x2 screwed to the inside of the openings. You can usually find the material at Home Depot/Lowes in 10' sticks but it is a lot cheaper if you get the 20 or 24' sticks at a real aluminum supplier. You also have less waste. Buy the flat spline style if you have a choice. The screen  locks in better. The real screen guys say, when you roll it, you go around and stop where you start. I have done it both ways. I still get a wave in it sometimes. 

1. 
   BSzydlo | Apr 18, 2010 09:48pm | #4

   Thanks for the information.  If you are going to make the panels removable would you still use the 1x2 aluminum or is there a size that is recommended for removable panels?

1. 
   gfretwell | Apr 18, 2010 11:21pm | #5

   The 1x2 would work but it is bigger than your typical removable screen frame.

   The inside of this material has channels that you can screw into so it can be quite stiff.

   I will try to get you some pictures.

   This is a wood frame I have 1x2 in but most of my enclosure is aluminum framing.

   http://gfretwell.com/wildlife/Black%20racer.jpg

   This is the material

   The open side goes against the wall and when you butt a piece up for a 90 you shoot a couple #8 screws through that piece, into those channels to hold it together

   
1. 
   BSzydlo | Apr 19, 2010 04:28pm | #6

   Thanks for the photo, I'll visit my local big box stores and see if anyone carries it.