Got some downtime on my brother’s job waiting on the kitchen cabinets, so I’m starting a porch job down in Carolina. Patient, understanding customer; wish I had more like her.
Porch will be 16×16, with the left side starting next to the crawlspace entry. The twin windows will make way for a set of French style patio doors.
For me, the effort to use standard batter boards, even for a deck or porch, is well worth it. The strings represent the center of the 6×6 posts.
Six footings, dug and poured. Two 80# bags each with a 1/2 rebar pin to locate the post center.
2x10x16’s, 16″ OC. The posts are 16 footers too. Can you say heavy? About 250 pounds each. That’s where the rebar pin really comes in handy as a locater.
The outside band is let-in to the 6×6’s, then doubled from behind. Two big C-clamps and a 2×4 make for a GOOD helper when not using a drop girder. 5/8″ galv. hdwr.
After some discussion, we elected to use the best grade of 5/4 treated decking we could locate. HO intends to have I/O carpet installed, so I wanted drainage and durability. She understands that there may be some “telegraphing” of the deck boards through the carpet.
Naturally, there’s a truss in the way of my box-beam. Had to “modify” it just a little bit (sorry Boss).
Notched the beam as well to mate up with the truss and restore the bearing point.
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David,
Looks good. I like the notch for the rim joists. I have seen many poorly constructed decks and porches that joists are just bolted on, relying on the fastener rather than using the post to support the structure.
What kind of fasteners did you use for th 5/4 deck?
Chuck S
#8x2 1/2" ceramic screws (Grip-Rite), supposedly approved for ACQ. Live in the solution, not the problem.
Looks good. What did you cut your notches out with?
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jt8
"We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop."
-- Mother Teresa
Thanks John,
Multiple passes with my circular saw, and cleaned up with a 2" Marples chisel. Use an offcut of joist to get it perfect while it's still on the bench. Saves some aggrivation later.Live in the solution, not the problem.
Trying to get these shots brought current. Sooooo slow loading on d/u.
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For simplicity, the box beams sit on top of the double plate, and are lag bolted to it. 6"x5/8" galv. lags into the top of posts as well.
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Then the box beam gets capped and fastened. 60 yr. old C-clamp helps keep it flush.
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With the beam capped, the truss bearing is restored. No harm, no foul.
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2x8x16's, 16" OC for the ceiling joists. Some of the PT 2x6 I recieved was so bad I couldn't finish the box beam until the next day. Yes, from an independent "Lumber Yard".
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Box beam tied in, common rafters, and king common. Notice the ridge left short so I can open up, tie-in, and dry-in all in one shot without worry.
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Before I set the hips, I prefabbed a "ladder" of outlookers on the porch...
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...then pushed the whole thing up and nailed it in place.
Looks good David. What type of ceiling is planned?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Probably use BC pine, primed BOTH sides. I've had pretty good luck with that in the past. Trying to keep this one simple and affordable. So far so good.Live in the solution, not the problem.
This was Saturday's progress.
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Set the rest of the jacks, hung sub-fascia, and started on the roof sheathing.
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Thank you Larry Haun and Marshall Gross!!!
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That pitiful sunroom on the right cost this lady 21k. Some people just have no morals.
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Starting to take shape. Got one valley under felt today; try for pics tomorrow. Hard to remember the camera when I'm making 100 trips a day up and down the ladder loaded down with rafters, sheathing, tools, fascia, rolls of felt, etc. Best part is getting ready to fasten something, reaching in my bags and feeling only leather and sawdust. @#$%!Live in the solution, not the problem.
David
Looks good. You need to keep some fasteners at the foot of the ladder in a bucket with a rope to the roof. I sometimes forget to connect the nail gun to the compressor.
I see what you meen about that other sunroom.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
OK, that was two days ago. now how does it look?
jt8
"We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop."-- Mother Teresa
Doing the best I can T8. Batteries went dead after one picture today. Need to get it shingled in tomorrow. Heading back to VA on Easter, and back on my brother's kitchen starting Monday. I'll try to bring that thread back to life.Live in the solution, not the problem.
David,
How about an update?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Okay Chuck, here's your update. Paid in full yesterday. One very happy customer.
Too tired to fight this dial-up tonight, will embed these tomorrow.Live in the solution, not the problem.
Looks good David. It is always a good feeling to get a final payment.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Looks pretty good so far.Out of curiosity what did this cost the homeowner?
Sorry to take so long getting back to you.
12 grand. Labor and Material.
Live in the solution, not the problem.
I built a porch similar to yours.(same method) Why did you use PT lumber for the box beam.? could you have used regular lumber? and I used trussed with LVL's. The porch is 16 x 22. If you'd built a larger structure would you have considered trusses?
It was reassuring for my first porch to see your point of view.
Edited 6/7/2007 11:22 am ET by curley
I like the wrap-around on yours Curley. By using PT on the BB, it's finished. Period.
Read the last word in the title of this thread.
Anything else would have to have been wrapped with finish-grade material, primed, and painted. That's part of the reason I chose to go with the hip. Easier to shingle than hang gable siding. Plus it looked so good on Mike Smith's porch in "Adverse Conditions".
As far as trusses go, I try not to consider them at all. My opinions about them cannot be posted here in the fine pages of BT.Live in the solution, not the problem.