Replies

1. 
   Skip_Dickinson | Dec 10, 1999 06:42pm | #2

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   There was an article in FH about three or four years ago about building a canvas topped screen porch that you might want to read. It has the most information I've found on the subjest of screening a porch.
   I added a screen porch to my house last spring and used inexpensive ($20) screen doors as the screen panels. They give the porch a finished look that would be would have been more difficult to achieve had I applied the screen myself.

2. 
   Mad_Dog | Dec 11, 1999 01:17am | #3

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   If you do go with method #2, try to think ahead to making it possible for the owners to be able to replace screens without undoing everything. I figured you'd screen over everything and cut screening out of anywhere it was not necessary, adding trim pieces to hold it all in place? It may be harder to get the screen to stretch tight this way.

   MD

3. 
   Guest_ | Dec 11, 1999 03:02am | #4

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   OK, I'll go with the black aluminum.

   I'm guessing the aluminum has less streach, and therefore is a little harder to get tight??

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 11, 1999 03:26am | #5

   *MD, Yes, that is my intention. The only place I will need to cut out the screen is for the 2 doors.One of the goals is to make the porch feel as open as possible. The "windows" are over 5' square. Also, with method 2, you get maximum viewing area as there are no "window frames" to obstruct one's view. I guess this could also be accomplished by surface mounting screen panels, but I don't think I'd like that arrangement too much.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 11, 1999 06:12am | #6

   *Well, I am only talkin' about window and door sized openings, but you can get either one tight. For fiberglass I machine a groove into one side of the frame, all the way around the opening, cut a piece of screen about 2" bigger in every direction, lay the screen over the frame and the spline over the screen. Then slowly roll the rubber sline into the groove. Most hardware stores sell a tool for rolling this spline. I sometimes do the same thing with aluminum but it creases and tears easy because it doesn't have the "give" fiberglass does, so you have to go real easy. I think most professional glazers staple the first side of aluminum then stretch and spline the opposite side. Someone here will know. Whichever method you use, fasten the short side first - like across the top of a screen door - stretch and fasten the opposite side, then do the adjacent sides in the same manner. Don't try to "work your way around" the opening, or you will put a twist in the screen. All these words make it sound a lot harder than it is. I'm sure you can handle it. - jb

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 11, 1999 07:03am | #7

   *JB:Yes, I have the spline roller tool, and I love it *NOT*. All:Thanks for your input.By the way, at Lowes, (a local "big box" store) I have seen a new (to me) system where you fasten some aluminum rails to the porch face, apply the screen, and then snap on a plastic cover. If I remember correctly, the snap on covers help to tighten the screen. Kinda of hard to illustrate in words. I think it uses a spline. Nifty system, but not sure I care for the plastic look, especially since, although it comes in several colors, I don't remember exactly liking any of them. Plastic doesn't bother me, just so that it doesn't look like plastic. Anybody seen the system I'm referring to?

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 11, 1999 05:30pm | #8

   *Matt, try http://www.screentight.com or 1 800 768 7325 This is similar to what you mention but in aluminum. White grey beige brown. If you use it let me know how it works. You be the guinea pig.

2. 
   Guest_ | Dec 11, 1999 07:28pm | #9

   *There's a big difference between professional and home owner spline tools. I had the misfortune of having a summer job many years ago rescreening window screens. I bet I've done 1000 of them. The right tool really makes the job go easier...maybe even easy.

3. 
   Guest_ | Dec 12, 1999 12:08am | #10

   *I've used that product from Lowes. Its all vinyl real fast and simple to use. If I ever had the need to screen in another porch I would never think about making frames again.I still have 1600$ worth of cedar floating around my shop because I found that product(I was going to build frames with the cedar)but the money was all saved labor wise in buying that snap together vinyl screen saver stuff

4. 
   Guest_ | Dec 12, 1999 02:01am | #11

   *Sline tool tip - use it so the roller is behind the heel of your hand, not out by your thumb - reduces strain on your wrist and forearm.

5. 
   Guest_ | Dec 12, 1999 10:43am | #12

   *I've used "Screen-Tite" would use it again. Great product, short learning curve. There were no aluminum components though, there are 2 choices, .....1 1/2" system & cover or 3 1/2" track & cover. Different colors in both sizes. The choice depends on your framing sizes. I went back to a screened hot tub room we did 6 years ago and replaced 2 screen panels the cats had ripped. Worked just like it was supposed to, easy repair. The stuff looked like the day I installed it.We used to buy the components direct from mfr., then HD picked up the distribution..............so now I can only get it in 8' lengths, used to buy 12's.Buy their spline and tool, they sell great spline tool, way ahead of the one you get at the hdw. store.Only problem I had was on another installation: the usual graphically-challenged homeowner. Showed her the sample, she picked the colors, we installed and she came home and just couldn't live with it. So we removed the Vinyl snap cover, left the other components in place and covered the base channels with 1x rgh. sawn cedar, which matched the rest of the trim on the house. Screwed the 1x on with SS screws and SS finish washers so the system was still replaceable. Some people object to the appearance of the product from the inside. There is nothing like a tradtional screen panel appearance............. But there is nothing like having to maintain one either. And you really save on the painting, painting, painting.

6. 
   Guest_ | Dec 12, 1999 06:00pm | #13

   *Steve, you're right, i'm wrong. Had 'em pull down the display. Like they told the graduate....Plastic, son. Thank you for the information

4. 
   ABerg | Dec 15, 1999 12:47am | #14

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   I feel I can relate to your question, as we have a screen porch at our lake cabin (12'x12') with 8 screen windows. The windows are 44" x 66". It's in the "deep woods" of northwestern Wisconsin, and the large windows with screen make it feel like you're sitting outside, only without mosquito bites! For the first 9 years we owned the place, we used Method #2. We tried both fiberglass screen and aluminum. You can buy screen that's 6' wide at a lot of lumber yards, and that's what we did, wrapping it around and stapling it just as you described.After 9 years, we had embedded and removed about 4,000 staples per square foot. (OK, that's a slight exaggeration.) Nor could we get that really "tight" look with the screen. In addition, Murphy's Law definitely applied! Anytime we replaced a screen, something BAD would happen to it within a week, generally involving kids, dogs, or sticks, but not necessarily in that order. Plus, to replace the screen we had to get on a ladder on the outside of the porch, which was inconvenient and time-consuming. Then, last summer, our neighbor helped us make outside 2"x 2" trim boards that had an 1/8" saw kerf about 1" from the outside edge. These boards were permanently screwed in place around the pressure treated pine posts which framed the window with the kerfed surface facing IN. The bottom line is that we now can install either screen or plastic (for winter) from the INSIDE of the porch. If you get a good spline tool, as previously suggested, it's a snap to install really tight screening quickly without even going outside. I can do this myself without getting on a ladder or asking my husband to help me. Plus, it was really cheap! Even though our trim boards were made of cedar, it was under $90 for all the windows. If you want to, you can have the saw kerf on the outside of the windows. (That's what our neighbor has, but he can stand on his picnic table to do his, so the outside kerf works fine for him.) I hope I don't sound boastful when I say that it was MY idea to have the saw kerf side facing IN. My husband and the neighbor automatically assumed it had to be facing out. (My husband was very appreciative when we put the plastic up last fall in the rain and we could stay dry inside.) You still have to add a little trim piece on, but you'd have to do that with System #2, anyway. So, even though I know you want to do system #2, I would reconsider. In the long run you might be happier. (Or you could do what we did and wait 9 years!) If you send me your mailing address, I'd be happy to send you a small sample chunk, easy directions, and pictures. Good luck whichever system you choose!

1. 
   plonk | Apr 03, 2006 08:24pm | #17

   If there is any chance of posting directions/drawing/pictures that would be great!

1. 
   dustinf | Apr 03, 2006 11:11pm | #18

   That post is from 7 years ago.  I'll be impressed if you get a reply.Speak the truth, or make your peace some other way. 

5. 
   Guest_ | Dec 15, 1999 03:07am | #15

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   That's a great idea and I'll use it in the future, but it would not work in this application, unless the ballusters (required by code for porches > 30" off grade) were either removable or on the outside of the screen.

   Does your porch have ballusters? Open floor to ceiling? Or is it only screened in the "window" area?

   I mentioned that I had done screen once before - used method #2. A couple with no kids. The job is still intact, although after 5 years or so, the (fiberglass) screen seems a bit loose.

   Also, the current job has already been completed - method #2. Black aluminum screen. Maximum viewing area.

6. 
   Guest_ | Jan 05, 2000 02:53am | #16

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   Anyone got some tips for screening a porch? This is new construction. I have only installed screen for a screened porch 1 time before - about 6 years ago. The only thing I really remember is that it is a pain in the a$$.

   The porch is already built. All PT lumber. #2 for the joists, girders & foundation posts. Everything else is #1 - "wall" posts, railings, 5/4 decking, detail work.

   There is basically 2 methods for applying screen:

   1) build screen panels to fit between the wall members, or

   2) simply stretch the screen around the structure, staple, and apply batten strips of some kind.

   I plan on taking approach #2 - sorry folks - the quick and easy way. Part of the reason is that some of the detail on the porch "walls" don't really lend themselves to screen panels. Lack of foresight or well boogered I guess. Besides, I didn't want to mess around those splines that hold in the screen. Anyway, please see attached drawing. What I had hoped to do is to stretch a piece of screen all the way around the 3 sides (to be screened) of the structure, staple with stainless staples, and cover corners, etc, with some 1x material that is screwed on for later screen replacement... Actually 2 pieces of screen - one for the rail sections and 1 for the "windows" and top detail.

   Anyone got any input? What is best and/or easier to work with? Fiberglass screen or aluminum screen?

   TIA

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 10, 1999 10:11am | #1

   *Matt - If you use aluminum screen, you might want to consider charcoal. I don't care for the metalic look when sunlight comes through regular screen so I started using black fiberglass. But that doesn't stand up as well as aluminum, so I switched back, but I use charcoal.