Does anyone know of a tool or Jig I can makebuy to keep all my screws in a “perfect†line when fastening down deck board? My eyes dont work in my “screw lines” tend to wonder the full 1.5 inches.
A chaulk line will not work (I think), since I have to at least put one screw down per joist to hold the board in alignment.
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PS: I can not use hidden fasteners, I will need to get access to under the deck in the future.
thanks
Hacker454
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Replies
hacker,
I intentionally "jogstagger" my deck screws on each board (left, right, left, right) about 3/4" for just that reason. You eye won't pick up a variation in an intentional varied line but will see the slightest curvebendmisalignment if they are tried to line up the whole way.
Just my preference of course.
Mike
Brilliant. the eyes can play tricks on you. Rolls Royce bows their vertical ribs in the front grill because if they dont it looks crooked.
I prefer to see decking installed at an angle on larger decks. Adds strength to the framework and greatly reduces the screw lineup problem since the eye doesn't follow the angles very well.Another thing to do is to only put one screw per joist, alternating left/right on the plank. This eliminates the chance that shrinkage will split the plank. Later you can come along and put in the second screw if the planks curl, but that's generally only a problem with cheap treated.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Just make up a jig out of some scrap wood. Your joists will be straight, so make a jig that goes up against the joist with the other part of the jig to sit on the decking and centered on the joist. A few 1x6's would work fine. Using a rafter square eyed off the joist, works fine, just hold it there while you gun nail, screw, etc.
You shouldn't need to snap lines you will nail/screw, etc into the joist, so just use that as your guide. If your rows are off, then the frame was poorly done.
What?!
Maybe you should post a photo of this "jig" you're talking about. A few 1x6? Huh?
You said, "the joist should be straight, otherwise the frame was poorly done."
I get crooked joist material ALL the time. It can only be worked as the decking goes down. Even then, there are tolerances. Nobody actually expects joists in the field to be dead nut straight. Except primadonnas.
Use blocking to hold the joists straight, or create some "walking" blocking by cutting a 2x4 to the right length and attaching a slightly longer piece along one side. Drop these between the joists where they want to bow towards each other.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Why bother? Just correct the joist as the decking's installed.
The walking blocking is an aid in doing what you say. Fixed blocking, though, may still be advised for longer spans.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Even then, there are tolerances. Nobody actually expects joists in the field to be dead nut straight.
Oughtta be pretty dern close. Certainly close enough to keep fasteners in a straight line.
Signed,
Prima Donna
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I never knew I had a rock star ego by having the joists run straight.
I'll start using the bad ones and if they are straight, I'll bend them and nail some blocking to make sure they don't straighten out too much.
Real men don't use straight lumber!!!!!!!!
If you cannot figure out a set up with two 1x6's forming a 90 degree angle with one offset 3/4" to center it on the joist, I doubt a pic would help much.
Would I be a prima donna if I posted a pic or just for using straight lumber?
WHY ARE YOU CENTERING ON THE JOIST?????
The idea is to align the FASTENERS IN THE DECKING!
Suggest you reread your own post, dude.
You cannot even comprehend the simplest of statements. I will try again to help you understand it once again.
<!----><!----> <!---->
If your joists are straight and you center your nailing on those joists, it stands to reason that the nailing/screw line would be straight. Get it???
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Edited 3/30/2006 9:00 am ET by DDay
Edited 3/30/2006 9:05 am ET by DDay
A convoluted run-on sentance the size of a paragraph is not "the simplest of statements."
So what's a straight joist got to do with all that 1x6 you were blabbering about? And a 3/4" offset? Sheesh.
If you claim to be using straight lumber, I'd just say you need glasses.
"If you claim to be using straight lumber, I'd just say you need glasses."<!----><!----><!---->
Or could it be that you’re just a hack with a weak intellect and no pride in the quality of your work.<!----><!---->
But I guess your doing the best you can with a double digit IQ.<!----><!---->
If you cannot understand what was discussed earlier, I don't have time to educate you. Maybe in your next life you'll finish your schooling rather than dropping out after the 5th grade.<!----><!---->
See ya later pig boy.
What the h*ll are these gawdawful comments doing on here?
Starting to sound as if you had the chance you'd kick each other in the head.
And all that over 'screw lines for decking' for crying out loud.
Some of you guys need to exit and go mellow out till you can find a way to deal with your hostilities without practicing insults on a building forum.
be if it wasn't so sick it might be funny
and that's the truth! pfft
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
And a double pfft pfft
Sheesh. Just looking for clarity.
Didn't know you'd be so sensitive.
DDay Pigsooie - that's enough. Either take it to personal/private emails, or keep it up and I'll boot you from the forum until you can calm down.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
No worries, it was finished a few days ago.
If you claim to be using straight lumber, I'd just say you need glasses.
Or perhaps you need to start purchasing lumber elsewhere.
You're not actually saving money if you need to spend extra time on labor to correct the shortcomings of the inexpensive material.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
All:
Thanks for debate....I think I'll go out and buy straight lumber or make a jig :).
Hacker454
Get a piece of plywood and a couple of angle reenforcing brackets (the L-shaped pieces of metal they sell at hardware stores). Fasten the brackets to the bottom of the plywood so they pass through two adjacent (or possibly non-adjacent) gaps between boards. Slide the bracket ends against the joist, and have the plywood stick out 3/4" farther (minus a hair) so you can set the screw right against the plywood and drive it. Make marks on the plywood edge where you want to screws to go, relative to the board edges.
happy?
Would a laser line work?
Yup you don't even need a line style one.
Just a simple level dot, put the box on the starting board line up dot at the other end of the joist & look for the dot on your screw or screw gun when driving.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
I would be afraid that putting the screws in the joist in a perfect line might tend to cause the joist to split. I normally stagger my screws back and forth, off setting them 1/2 " per board
Don't use chalk--I think it'd be on there nearly forever and look bad. However, you could put a screw part way in at each end and run a dry line between and pull it tight and screw along it--that's how we rescrew laminated drywall that's come loose on ceilings. You can run the line along one joist to the end, run it the 16" over to the next, along that joist to the end and over 16" to the next and so on.
White chalk won't stain. It's the dye in the chalk that stains.
I have used mason line, boards/straightedge and chalk all have there place.
I have even squared the ends then marked the edge of a stack with a framing square.
Garett
I have tacked them down with a screw here and there centered on the joist and then used a white chaulk line which disapeares in a short time, also works for hand rail brackes on finihed walls
I'm glad I'm not that anal but if I was, I'd probably second the dryline suggestion.
Another idea comes to mind. I'd first tack a lacer board midway on the bottom of the joists to get them as straight as possible. I'd then snap a line down the center of each joist. I'd use blue chalk or white. I'd then use those snapped lines as my reference line for aligning the screws as I installed them. If my skills were still lacking, I'd use a tri-squre to lightly line up the locations and center punch them exactly the same distance from each edge.
Like I said, I'm thankful that I'm not that anal, but if I was building a boat or a piano, I'd use this system.
blue
"Like I said, I'm thankful that I'm not that anal, but if I was building a boat or a piano, I'd use this system."Yeah, hard to believe this is such a contentious issue.
Promise me that if you ever build a piano with deck screws, you'll post pics. And I bet you could do it fast, and no wasted wood, too. ;)zak
Try this:
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Sorry about that, here's a resize...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
View Image
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
Not too shabby there Mr. Fink.
We gonna see that one in the Tips & Techniques of an upcoming issue?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Conceding of course that I am pretty anal-retentive about such things - on the couple deck jobs I've done, I've run a tight string line along each joist. I then just make a small dot with a Sharpie a known distance (combo square blade maybe) in from each board edge. This is a very quick procedure - not quite as precise as it may sound.
After marking a bunch it's off to the races with the screw gun. Then just mark some more screw lines while the gun is cooling down.
If your screws show at all - it does tend to make a big difference in the final look of the deck and it really doesn't take too long to do.
You can get a piece of metal strap with the 3/8" holes drilled in it in the metal bun of the hardware store. It's used for hanging garage door tracks to rafters.
Lay it over your joist, tack each end lightly with a screw, then just use the holes to eyeball center the screws. The holes are wide enough to not interfere with the head. When done, just untack the one side and walk it around to the other side and tack it again. Your screws will be evenly spaced from eachother.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
how 'bout using mason's line blocks and string?
I guess it depends on the kind of deck boards you're using, but I usually tack the boards with a finish nailer and screw them off after, using a white chalk line (cleans easier).
Mike
One way i have done in the past is to first cut a bunch of spacers to whatever witdth you want between the decking.
I will usually find a scrap piece of 3/16" +- hardboard and cut like a hundred 3"x3" squares.
As we lay the decking put the spacers every joist or every other joist and toenail the decking with 8 galv's as we go .
Leave the spacers in until you screw off the deck.
Works good ,and makes
for quick work.No stopping and starting with the screws.
I helped an old timer do a deck a few years back, and what he did is run string or mason line, whatever you want to call it, centered on each joist. My job entailed predrilling and screwing all the holes, and I have to say, the holes were all straight. The downside was moving the string to the side for each hole, but that wasn't bad. Best of all, no marks, lines, or chalk on the boards.
Young, poor, and eager to learn