Replies

1. 
   MojoMan | Dec 10, 2003 04:12pm | #1

   This is a good illustration of several of the discussions on BT lately - particularly remarks by CSnow - about the importance of stopping air leaks into the attic. I'll be watching the melting patterns on my roof to see where I should be looking for more chinks in the armor.

   I think unilsulated recessed lights may be one of the great causes of ice dams. Many people insulated after the energy crisis of the 70's, but added stylish recessed cans in the go-go 80's. We haven't had real ice dam conditions around here in years (This storm is close!), but when we do, there's going to be many ruined ceilings.

   The other very risky trend is the siting of hot-air-heat air handlers in the attic. When conditions are right, this source of heat right under the roof is a guaranteed problem.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA 

1. 
   gdavis62 | Dec 10, 2003 04:23pm | #2

   I have two Aker acrylic bath units on the top floor, one a tub/shower, and the other a shower.  Each has a can-light in the integral ceiling.  For both, I built a sealed box above, the size of the whole bath unit, with the tops clearing the light fixture by at least 8 inches.  The blown-in cellulose sits on top, at a thickness of 16 inches.  Those cans are OK.

   I think I will have my electrician bed each light fixture canopy and each smoke detector in a small perimeter bead of latex caulk, when we finish up.

2. 
   tenpenny | Dec 10, 2003 04:24pm | #3

   Most of the builders here strongly discourage ceiling lights in the uppermost floors, for that very reason.  Ceiling boxes are sealed with vapour barrier etc etc, to prevent air leakage.

3. 
   fortdh | Dec 10, 2003 07:41pm | #8

   You are right about air handlers sitting in the attic full of hot air.

   On a frosty roof, you can find the air handler from the street.

   I advise sealing all seams with aluminum tape, easy to cut with razor blade knife to get into unit. I then make foil backed foam board panels to fit each side, and al tape them on to the AH.

   Also Micro should look at the hvac boots for air leaks, and weather strip/insulate/double door or lid whatever the access is to the attic.

   PaulEnergy Consultant and author of Practical Energy Cost Reduction for the Home

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 10, 2003 05:09pm | #4

   You still using temp heaters to heat the place? (propane - torpedos)  Windows open for ventilation?

   Matt
3. 
   csnow | Dec 10, 2003 05:53pm | #5

   This is a good time to search for air leaks.

   Wait for a cold still day (or night).

   Open the front door, then go upstairs and look for evidence of leaks.

   There are a number of methods for detecting leaks.

   Some pros use smoke pencils, but you can use;

   1) A smoldering match, wooden stick, or piece of paper (obviously, use caution)

   2) A cigarette

   3) Spray bottle that makes a fine mist.

   4) A piece of toilet paper

   Watch where the smoke/mist goes, or the TP flaps about.

   Amazing what you can discover with this low-tech sleuthing...

   Best of luck.

1. 
   MojoMan | Dec 10, 2003 06:53pm | #6

   Where do you use smoke, etc. to test for leaks? In the attic, or the top floor?

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   csnow | Dec 10, 2003 07:03pm | #7

   Top floor.  Positive pressure vectors up there.