Replies

1. 
   thumper | May 01, 2003 10:21pm | #1

   Bill, There is a product-Quad sealant- that I  have used with great success in situations such as yours. It comes in gallons or quarts is clear wiith the consistency of corn syrup. After curing is paintable and is very durable. Just apply with a brush, it is very easy to put into crevices and such.Great for sealing cement chimney caps,after it cures the cap looks as if it is wet-no sheen from sealant. Due to its thickness much better than any other type of waterproofer.

2. 
   Qtrmeg | May 02, 2003 04:49am | #2

   It sounds like your roof leaks, guy.

   While it is very likely your leak is around the chimney, it could be anywhere uphill.

1. 
   rebildit | May 02, 2003 05:55am | #4

   The chimney is only 2 feet from the peak, I know it is not a roof leak.  But thanks for the suggestion.

3. 
   MHinshaw | May 02, 2003 05:42am | #3

   I've got this same situation in my own house.  The chimney is absorbing water and it is wicking to the plaster.  Many times in the old days the builders would plaster directly to a masonry chimney without furing.  Any moisture (including moist air rising up the flue, and hitting the dew point near the roof) will transfer to adjacent surfaces and substances.

1. 
   rebildit | May 02, 2003 06:01am | #5

   You have it dead on, I think that the old roof with multiple layers...wood, ashpalt etc. was acting as the absorbent layer and wicking the moisture away before it hit the plaster.  Now with only one roof, not necessarily tight to the masonry, it is releasing the moisture into the plaster. 

   What did you do?  Or are you just dealing with it?

   In my first house, I had city water, and the ground moisture would follow the exterior of the water main in through the old stone foundation...I tied a small rope around the pipe and let it hang in a five gallon bucket...no more water on the floor...do you think I should tie a rope around the chimney...that would go over real well,, don't you think

   Bill

1. 
   MHinshaw | May 03, 2003 03:01am | #6

   Well, I know that when I give myself some time to deal with it, I will remove the plaster on the chimney, tar the *$@$^ out of it, then fur it out with hat channel and replaster. 

1. 
   rebildit | May 03, 2003 03:45am | #7

   Sounds like great fun, why not have a root canal done while you are at it!

2. 
   Piffin | May 03, 2003 05:51pm | #8

   Don't use tar on the interior or you will be back wondering how to fix other problems.

   Use Thoroseal instead.

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   homewrite | May 03, 2003 08:23pm | #9

   Definitely do not sandblast. Exterior of bricks is usually much harder and more water resistant than interior. If cleaning is necessary, pressure wash in controlled fashion making sure not to cut grooves in brick. Thoroseal is excellent for top of chimney. It can be applied to side of chimney, in stucco-like fashion; but it will alter appearance. Silicone penetrating sealants work well on sides of chimney after newly pointed-up mortar has cured. Also consider possibiity that water going down the flue is causing the problem.  A sheet metal chimney cap may be in order.

4. 
   homewrite | May 03, 2003 10:27pm | #10

   One additional note: once silicone penetrating seaer is applied, it is difficult to impossible to point up mortar. The mortar will not stick to silicone impregnated brick or mortar. This applies to caulking around counterflashing also. Plan accordingly.

1. 
   rebildit | May 06, 2003 12:10am | #11

   Homewrite,

   Very different advice from what I am recieving locally. 

    Everyone is telling me to stay away from silicone sealants, am told they do not hold up well over time. 

   Also, there is no way the exterior coatings are coming off with a power wash.  One sand blaster came by today and thought it would not be a problem to protect the integrity of the bricks while still removing the coating, a different guy is coming tomorrow and will spot test a small section.

   Bill