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Sealing Cedar

mobiledynamics | Posted in General Discussion on November 5, 2010 01:47am

 

I’m finishing up my lawnmower/snowblower western cedar shed.

What is the BEST oil to seal it up. Flood, Sikkens Dek OR a good Penetrating Oil. I see some issues where the latter cracks/peels. The shed floor will not sit flush on my pavers. I plan to lay it on 12×12 Concrete Blocks for air to breath. Am I better using off some sort of commercial grade paint like BM Industrial Paint to Protect the BOTTOMSIDE of the floor,

I’m leaning on oil, but I’ve used both the Flood and Sikkens Dek in the past. Not long enough to garner a basis on is it good stuff or not…

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  1. DanH | Nov 05, 2010 10:40pm | #1

    Are you talking about the floor or the siding?

    1. mobiledynamics | Nov 06, 2010 02:07am | #2

      Everything. Roof, Exterior, etc.

      I meant for the underside of the floor, the side facing the pavers, is it better to use a heavy duty Industrial paint  to seal that side.

      Bear in mind it won't be able to painted relatively easy down the road....thus the consideration in this respect.

      1. DonCanDo | Nov 06, 2010 08:43am | #3

        Your description of what it is you need to paint/stain/seal could be a little more robust.  I'm picturing exterior plywood facing the ground with an air space of 8 inches.  If that's right, you probably don't really need anything on the bottom surface.  If you want insurance against moisture, use a good oil-based primer.  I happen to like X200 by Muralo, but there are other good choices too.

        Similarly, for siding, a good oil-based primer followed by a latex topcoat is the most durable finish.  In general, paint will always outlast stain/sealer.

      2. DanH | Nov 06, 2010 10:04am | #4

        It's generally best to use roughly the same coating on both sides.

  2. toolpouchguy | Nov 07, 2010 06:30am | #5

    well you are suppose to stain cedar with a penitrating stain ,no paint

    I only know cedar use it all the time western red ,

    tried primer and paint on cedar  ,it became a liability , the painter had to go back and repair the peeling a few times .

    1. mobiledynamics | Nov 07, 2010 08:06am | #6

      What stain/sealant have you had a good experiance with ?

      I guess for every +, there will be a negative. I've seen mixed feedback on both the Sikkens Dek and the Flood UWF. Sikkens seems to be the preferred of the 2.

      Then there is the Waterbased stuff like BM Arborboat. It's been too early fo negative feedback I guess, but seems to be +++ reviews on this stuff across the board.

  3. DanH | Nov 07, 2010 08:46am | #7

    I replaced a few pieces of cedar fascia on our house, before switching to PrimeTrim.  First I tried HW store "exterior primer", but the paint peeled right off, leaving bare wood again.  Moorewhite primer, OTOH, did the job without a hint of peeling anywhere.

  4. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Nov 07, 2010 06:29pm | #8

    Focus on the primer and on the surface.

    Focus on the primer and the condition of the cedar in question.

    If, for instance, you have cedar siding, it must be sanded to remove mill glaze before painting (shiny areas created by the mill which 'glazes' areas of the surface.

    For painting:

    Cabot Problem-Solver Primer with 5-10% Penetrol and M-1 mildewcide still works the best from what I see/use/specify.  Two coats - even better.

    Top-coat with quality latex - B-M or S-W generally.

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