sealing old in-swing casement window
I’ve been replacing all the exterior window casing and got to the top window under the main ridge in the attic. It is a replaced unit – double-glazed wood sash set up as an in-swinging casement with door hinges; it’s wider than tall, about 2’x3′. The exterior uses aluminum strips with an attached grey compression tubing (vinyl?) which act as a stops. It’s old-looking, and I think it may lose flexibility (and the seal) in the cold.
Any thoughts on what to use as a replacement? Since it’s on the exterior side, it needs to hold up to cold and general weather. I could add a wooden stop around the edges if that helps. I was going to attach a drip cap, or something, to the lower rail of the sash to divert water past the bottom seal.
We’ll be putting up a sliding storm on the outside.
—mike…
Madison Renovations
Cambridge, Mass.
Replies
Frankly, if you put the storm on the outside you don't need much else.
The storm window is operable and will be open with a screen in the summer. At the present time, heavy, wind-driven rain causes leaks into the stairwell, where it's located. Storms also don't provide the greatest seal.The rest of the attic is high-density spray-foamed (roof and walls), and the other windows are new, tightly sealing regular Pella casements, so that would be a location would be a weak link with a lot of pressure for air to escape. If there isn't a good seal at the casement, moist inside air will seep out and be somewhat trapped by the storm.---mike...
one more note: In particular, I'm looking for the best material for the compression bulb/gasket. I heard that some materials lose their flexibility in the cold, so wouldn't seal as well. Simple foam would hold onto moisture. What kind of seal would stay flexible in New England cold?thanks,
---mike...
Try Resource Conservation Technology in Baltimore. They are very helpful over the phone or check out options here:
http://www.conservationtechnology.com/building_weatherseals.html
Billy
Thanks Billy,I saw their ads but hadn't gone on their site before. I think I have some ideas, now.I think I don't want to use a sweep on the bottom as they suggest; I'd rather have compression strips all the way around. Since it's not very visible from inside or out, I'll rabbet some 1/2" stops for the sides and top and insert the WS15 silicone flipperseals. On the bottom, I'll use a 1x tapered stop to direct water to the exterior, with a rabbet and WS15. I'll use a 1/2-round ripped to make a 3/8-round drip cap attached near the bottom of the sash over the tapered stop to direct water past the seam. I'll rabbet that 3/8-round to accept a tubeseal to compress against the bottom stop, over the flipperseal.And with the exterior storm window, I should achieve overkill!The good thing is that I can have the stops installed now while the pre-painting carpentry is progressing, then insert the weatherstrips into the grooves when they arrive.thanks again,
---mike...
The quality of their products is great -- good luck!
Billy