I have a concrete retaining wall that has a wrought iron fence on top of it. At the point where the posts go into the concrete, the contractor created little cement mounds so that the water would drain off. Over time those little mounds have fallen apart, so I need to seal that area.
What product would I use to create seal around the base of the posts? I’ve seen rubber (I think) sealants used in similar applications, but not sure what to use. Any thoughts?
Spring is close and I am itching to get to these projects!
Joe Joyce Boston MA
Replies
By "thinset" you mean a type
By "thinset" you mean a type of mortar product?
Thinset is the mortar-like material used to set ceramic tile. It is fairly durable, easy to work with, adheres pretty well, and has a touch of "flex" (which you need). Hydraulic cement is generally used for setting steel in concrete (when "epoxy" isn't used), but thinset may actually be better for this use.
Unfortunately, you'd have to buy a whole bag of the stuff -- maybe 50 pounds.
Joe
Whatever you use (vinyl conc. patch, sand mix, whatever), wet (damp) down the area on and around where you are going to place it. You don't want the old concrete sucking out the moisture of the patch too quick. Then use white glue or plasterweld or concrete glue in the area you are bedding that mound. Slather that around. Usually let dry, but not a necessity. Give it a bit of time to bond to the old concrete.
Are there plates on the iron fence post bases for you to screw down? Going through the mounds after they set up would be a weak point and might cause them to split out. Threaded studs mounted in the concrete retaining wall that stick up high enough for you to nut down the base would be a better idea. Build up that mound around them.
I would use some type of epoxy myself.
Normal epoxy is translucent and will look pretty yucky fairly quickly. It's also (if really epoxy) pretty expensive. It might work to use the polyester/acrylic resin sold for setting bolts into concrete -- the stuff generally sets to a sort of mortar-gray color, it's quite a bit cheaper, and it comes in self-mixing caulking gun tubes.
However, most of the resins will tend to "self level" if applied in any significant thickness, so it might be difficult to achieve the desired "mound".
It's easy, and even a good idea to put sand on top of the epoxy to provide UV resistance and a more natural appearance.
I wouldn't use anything. I grew up in Charleston, SC where wrought iron is installed on almost every house. I've never seen it mounded at all, and if it's real wrought iron it takes centurys to rust. There is still plenty of wrought iron embedded in concrete all over the old WWII Batteries on the beaches around Charleston that still looks good 75 years later.