I’m making a u-shaped laminate counter top for a kitchen. I don’t want to 45 the corners but rather butt them. I’m thinking that the laminate wants to be a fuzz heavy along both halfs of the seam so that, when the seam is together, the seam is as tight as can be.
How do I do it???????
mirror image rout you say? yes but how to leave the lam proud just at the seam?
p.s.:
these are square edge counters, no wood edging just laminate all around.
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Replies
you're on the right track for seaming. let the excess be hidden under the backsplash(s).
Expert since 10 am.
I am not sure I understand what you mean by 'a fuzz heavy'.
Are you doing the top separate from the base cabs., or are you doing it in place?
Some people leave a dowel (or whatever is used ) in place about 8" away from the seam, set the top a bit on either side of the dowel, then pull it and press/roll out to move the laminate as tight as possible toward the adjoining piece.
Is there a sink in the middle of the u? try to seam it there so there is only an couple inches of seam. If not, try to but the factory edges together, and trim it off against the walls. The laminate trimmer can be set to leave a "fuzzy" edge. We usually do that anyway, and use a file to dress the edge, but I wouldn't use that method for a butt joint. Is this to be seamed onsite?
I never liked seaming a counter at the sink. I've seen too many open up because people let the water sit there, and the substrate swells.
Whenever possible, I like to make the counter out of one large sheet, so there's no seams. Even if there's waste.
I agree that you should always try for a single sheet, but since nobody sells the stuff on rolls anymore, the biggest I can get is 5x12 sheets. Its rare that I get a top that small. We always shellac the the substrate a few inches where the seam lies, so that any water that makes it past the seam sealer won't swell the particle board. It doesn't really matter anyway since there is a seam that runs across the front all the way down that is a few inches from the sink anyway. If any water that is going to get in the seam between sheets, it's going to find its way in the edge seem too.
I don't know for sure, but it seems risky. When you butt the substrates together you'll of course put the laminate in compression. That may risk popping it off or cracking it.
We do these in the shop all the time.
We begin with a scribed substrate built up around the edges so the lam edging has some backing. We use countertop connectors and biscuits at all the seams. Edge the whole thing and belt sand the joints and the top of the edges flat with the whole thing connected. Don't crank way down on those connectors, but make sure they are secure while you are lam-ing. I would keep your seems as FAR AWAY as possible from the sink and advise against using the factory edge as a seam (they are often abused and they almost always have a tiny little chips and cracks that will only get worse. To dress the seam lay your sheets on some plywood for good support space them about 1/4 inch apart, in the orientation they will be on the finished piece. Straight edge them with a router running a fence cutting both sheets at once. Go slow and use an accurate straight edge. File a small backcut on each "jointed" edge. Knock any burr on the top edge off with a file the same way (be VERY light handed here, the color layers are usually very thin, you should just set the file on the work and use the weight of the file in your hand to just smooth off the burr). Apply your chosen adhesive and allow to set. When laying the decks on the substrate use dowels to keep the sheet off until both sheets are positioned. Stick one all the way and roll out. Stick the other one at the seam as tight as possible and roll the next 4-6 inches leave one dowel and pull the others (the "bubble" you leave should not be very big and should be even across the depth of the counter). Roll the rest of the deck on the non seem side of the dowel. Remove the dowel you left and carefully roll toward the seam. It should look seamless and FEEL like it is not even there. Take those connectors out and keep the seamed joint edges from being beat-up until you reassemble in place. Take your time and be carefull, once its stuck- its stuck!
Your technique mirrors what I also do. A sink joint is the worst place for a joint. It may be easier because of the short seams but plastic laminate does shrink with time, leaving a small crack in a most undesirable spot. I always try to do a one sheet countertop where the sink is located. While doing a large plastic laminate job, I learned that the manufacturers recommend a certain substrate for their product. The substrate has a similar shrinkage coefficient, thus minimizing the cracks between seams.