Hi everyone,
(Please excuse my poor terminology–I’m a DIYer not a professional homebuilder.)
I’m helping a friend with some things around her house–one is a wobbly railing on her deck that ends at a brick wall. I’ve secured into cynder block before with those fasteners that “mushroom” out as you tighten them down, but going into standard brick seems like it might crack those bricks. Any ideas on how to secure something to a brick wall like this?
Thanks,
Scott
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Replies
I would use a plastic anchor. They come in various sizes. Don't use the small ones that are meant for hanging pictures. Something larger like 1/4" or 5/16".
The hard part may be drilling a hole for the anchor. For that you'll need a hammer drill and a carbide bit. You can probably rent one, but get the smallest one you can find and go slowly into the brick so as not to crack it.
-Don
If you can find them, a plastic anchor called Expandets. A straight sleeve (ribbed) plastic anchor. They work very well in even soft brick. They are sold in groups (square plastic rack) or singly. You can size them according to screw size tho you can use slightly smaller screws than what they say on the pkg.
Stand alone rotating displays in good hardware stores.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hey Cal ...
they work better than the old trusty lead shields?
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff, this is the theory and practice. You bore a hole say 1/2" in anything solid (soft brick, concrete, sandstone, block etc). The expandet is sized just a bit bigger than the hole, the ribs give it cushion and a firm fit. The screw cuts into and threads the soft plastic. There's just enough expansion to hold it firm. Excellent shear and darn good pull out. Since it doesn't expand alot like the lead shield, not splitting or fracturing. Great in the case of anchoring those iron railings on the edge of a limestone/sandstone slab or step. The corner will not be split off............usually.
They have no lip, so you buy and bore as deep as the anchor, you can stack them if need be, cut the excess off if you don't get it all the way in the hole.
They come small and up to large enough for a qtr/5/16th's maybe 3/8's lag.
They're getting harder to find. The display is usually standing up on the top shelf in the hardware.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
ohhh ... U mean the old kind that come in little plastic "racks" ...
I thought this was something new ... never knew the name.
Have used them lotsa times too ... and you're right ... hard to find.
can't even remember if I've ever bought them at a HD or Lowes ...
usually an old hardware store.
but ... my inspectors would never let me use them for a weight bearing ledger. It'd have to be lead shields. For the leas shields ... instead of splitting the brick face ...
I shoot for drilling thru the mortar ... at the bottom corner of 2 brick ... centered above the one below. Locks them all together instead of cracking.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Calvin
what do you think about this------
a sandstone sill---73" long x 5 inches thick.
Steel casement window---which sits within a wood frame---wood frame sits on stone sill.
wood frame has warped---just enough to interfere with operation of window.
Now---assuming I can clamp enough of the warp out of the wood to allow the window to once again swing clear-------
If I drill and install ---say 3 of those exandets to hold the sill down-----------------
whats the drawback to that application?????????????
I was afraid to try with tapcons---or the lead anchor route----'cause I was afraid several of those anchors---wedging in the wholes---in line---might split the stone?????
But the expandets????------say spaced 20 inches apart????
do you think not enough wedging action to split the stone??? and the worst that can happen is when the clamp is released the warp pulls the expandedts back out?????
Please tell me what you think---not what I want to hear. If either of us is wrong---I won't complain.
Stephen
Edited 7/22/2005 8:18 am ET by Stephen Hazlett
Well, they split stone by drilling in a line, driving wedges or even inserting wood pins and filling with water.
How about one hole in the center to take the warp out?
Or maybe this one. And it would depend on the brick below. If the brick are solids, drill an oversized hole through the sandstone. Change bits to the anchor size and drill the brick, not the mortar joint. Get the anchor in there, run longggggg screws into the anchor. I've got some 8" piffin screws for instance, they do make em that long. That way the sandstone is just a thick stone washer.
Like I said above, great shear strength, pull out pretty good. That's what I'm concerned about, trying to pull down that bow. If you have room, jack that bow down before doing any of this so you're just holding it, not trying to brink it down with the screw.
I've got some sandstone, we can try the anchor b/4 going to the game. You try and bring a bowed pc for the test. I got the screws and anchors.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
We attach downspout straps to brick walls all the time. One other way to get a good bite is take some tinsnips and cut a thin strip of sheetmetal say an 8th in wide by 3" long. Fold it in half and insert in the drilled hole, run a ceramic deck screw in.
Works like a champ.
The metal sorta wads up around the threads and creates a bind in the brick. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
OK, thanks. I'll look for the 'Expandets'.
BB, here's a link so you can seek out a supplier.
http://www.expandet.com/Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Tap-Cons are your answer. They are screws that thread into masonry. You drill a hole and drive the screw in. You can also back them out if you don't over do it. Luck.