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Discussion Forum

Self-feed bits…won’t

mwgaines | Posted in General Discussion on September 19, 2007 02:17am

Picked up some self-feed bits from HD the other day (1-1/2, 2-1/8-, 2-9/16) and for some reason they work ok one minute and won’t work the next. I’m roughing in some plumbing and I’ve tried each bit, but they all act the same way. For instance, I drilled down through a top plate and the bit went through the first 2X just fine, but then just quit cutting. It was spinning ok, but it just wouldn’t go any farther. The shank length was fine, so it wasn’t the chuck bottoming out against the wood. I proceeded to penetrate another top plate and it sailed right through with no problem at all. Each one of these bits is doing the same thing — cuts fine one minute, then just spins like it can’t get a bite.

Am I doing something wrong?

New knowledge is priceless. 

Used knowledge is even more valuable.

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Sphere | Sep 19, 2007 02:28am | #1

    The lead screw threads are clogging, some brands have removeable screws, if so, get a coarse thread screw, if not, use a file to re-shape the threads.

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    "If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"

  2. McPlumb | Sep 19, 2007 02:42am | #2

    Some of the forsner type bits will actualy make a little disc as they leave one piece of wood and start into another. This disc will move over the cutters slow the bit cutting action. I just stop and clean the cutting face off.

    1. User avater
      Sphere | Sep 19, 2007 02:44am | #3

      Should we ask him if it was spinning the right way?  DOHSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

      "If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"

  3. frenchy | Sep 19, 2007 02:49am | #4

    MWGaines,

     Happens all the time to me doing my timberframe.. what's happening is the lead screw isn't pulling itself into the next wood.. could be a little disk of wood is spining could be the next wood is soft and stripping out the screw lead it could be a number of things.. the only solution is brute force.. make the bit cut into the next piece.. it will sooner or later..

      Wait untill you have a 4  5/8ths bit on the end of that hole hawg and need to go thru 14 inches of ash! then into a 2 inch piece of tamarack!

      We're talking about some real ugly grunting..

     

  4. JonE | Sep 19, 2007 02:51am | #5

    Don't think you're doing anything wrong.  I have encountered that, what seems to happen is that the lead screw strips out the wood and won't feed.  Sometimes it creates a thin disc, sometimes the next piece is very soft and strips out.  Either way, a hard push will do the trick.  Most of the time they should just grab and go, but sometimes they don't.

     

  5. emerconstruction | Sep 19, 2007 03:16am | #6

     Is the wood wet?  I've noticed that they seem to get clogged up when the wood is wet.  It's a pain to keep stopping to clear the bit.

  6. mwgaines | Sep 19, 2007 04:46am | #7

    No, the drill wasn't in reverse. I learned to verify that after spending about 10 minutes in a very hot, dark attic this summer trying to cut in a 6"  take-off in a trunk line. Turned out that I had accidently pulled on the directional switch and didn't notice that the bit was spinning backwards. That's one of those mistakes that sticks with ya for awhile.

    All the wood is dry.

    Haven't noticed any discs under the bit. I don't think that's the problem here anyway because the bit won't even "start" a cut at times. The feed screw does its thing, but then the bit just sits against the wood and spins. It's almost like it has no teeth at all. Yet, at other times, they drill quick and deep...and then stall again.

    These bits are brand new. Each bit has only been used slightly and they're all doing the same thing. I did manage to catch a screw with one of the bits, but that wouldn't explain why the others are acting so weird. The teeth are fairly sharp (for HD stuff) and they appear to be machined properly. The pilot screws look ok too.

    I'm using a right angle drill, so I'm real careful to maintain steady pressure and a firm grip (Nearly threw me off my step ladder a time or two).

    I've got some hole saws I can use, but they seem better suited for sheet material.

    Thanks for the feedback.

     

     

    New knowledge is priceless. 

    Used knowledge is even more valuable.

  7. FastEddie | Sep 19, 2007 04:54am | #8

    Hitting a nail?

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

    1. mwgaines | Sep 19, 2007 05:02am | #9

      "Hitting a nail?"

      No nails, but I did find a buried screw with one of the bits. But, even that bit will still cut...if it takes a notion to.

       New knowledge is priceless. 

      Used knowledge is even more valuable.

      1. davidmeiland | Sep 19, 2007 06:25am | #10

        You don't mention what type of self-feeders you bought, but the Milwaukee style are fairly common and do not always self feed. I have several and expect to put quite a bit of force behind the drill to get the larger ones thru. The force that the lead screw can exert does not equal the force needed to do the cutting.

        The best ones, IMO, are the Lenox bits that have threads around the outside of the rim. Those bad boys self-feed right thru the wood no matter what. As my Milwaukee bits die off I'll be replacing them with Lenox.

        1. BillBrennen | Sep 19, 2007 07:48am | #11

          David,I totally agree. Lenox self-feeding bits are just superior. The old Planetor bits by Rule Industries (now out of business) had the threads on the outside like the Lenox, and were unstoppable once engaged and turning.The Milwaukee bits are okay, and I use a few simply because they are widely available. The best tools are often less well distributed than average tools.Lenox also make recip saw blades that are much better than the ones from Milwaukee.Bill

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