Replies

1. 
   rdesigns | Mar 07, 2011 01:10pm | #1

   It is possible (and code-compliant) to have one vent for both the sink and the toilet. In fact, it is possible to have just one vent for 2 full bathrooms in a house.

   However, there are rules on just how it is to be done, and the rules vary from one jurisdiction to another. The best advice is for you to talk to your local inspector if that's possible.

   One way to do this is to install a 3 x 2 wye on the horizontal toilet drain line;

   the wye should be within 6 feet of the toilet; the branch of the wye should be rolled up so that its flow line is above the centerline of the 3" toilet drain; the 2" branch will then continue upward into the wall behind the sink;

   at the right height for the sink (about 22" above the floor) install a 2 x 1-1/2 sanitary tee, the branch of which will connect to the p-trap of the sink, and the top of which will continue vertically for the vent thru the roof;

   some codes require that the vent be 2" because of the toilet it serves; other codes allow the vent to be 1-1/2;

   do not turn the vent to the horizontal until it's at least 6" above the flood rim of the sink.

   There are many other ways to do this, but each way has its own rules.

1. 
   KWOLSEN | Mar 07, 2011 11:26pm | #2

   toilet vent

   thanks for the reply. 

   I've got a relatively tight spot caused by us not putting a 4 inch sleeve thru the raised foundation wall that we pourede  in the best location. A 3 inch black ABS fits fine thru it, though. 

   While trying to figure out this design, I'm trying to keep ther number of 90 degree bends to a minimum.  Are you sayi ng that when the 2 inch toilet  vent attaches to the 3 inch pipes, that it has to be above the centerline of the 3 inch pipe at the absolute highest spot throuout the 3 inch pipe run ?  Or, can it be anywhere in the 3 inch pipe as long as above the 3 inch pipe centerline.?  I assume you want above the 3 inch center line so waste is less likely to clog the vent?  I know, hire a plumber, but I am stubborn and enjoy learning this crap on my own (and your help).

   Is there a better glue than the black stuff at home depot ?  Is the purple primer ok to use ?

2. 
   cameraman | Mar 08, 2011 11:00am | #3

   Vent size as it penatrates the roof

   Check you local codes. In a cold climate like here in Mi. I have to have the vent penatrate the roof as a 3" .

   You can vent as a 2"  but must convert to a 3" pipe  before it pentatrates the roof line.

   They say the moisture can freeze shut a 2" pipe but not a 3"

3. 
   cameraman | Mar 08, 2011 11:00am | #4

   Vent size as it penatrates the roof

   Check you local codes. In a cold climate like here in Mi. I have to have the vent penatrate the roof as a 3" .

   You can vent as a 2"  but must convert to a 3" pipe  before it pentatrates the roof line.

   They say the moisture can freeze shut a 2" pipe but not a 3"

4. 
   cameraman | Mar 08, 2011 11:00am | #5

   Vent size as it penatrates the roof

   Check you local codes. In a cold climate like here in Mi. I have to have the vent penatrate the roof as a 3" .

   You can vent as a 2"  but must convert to a 3" pipe  before it pentatrates the roof line.

   They say the moisture can freeze shut a 2" pipe but not a 3"

5. 
   KWOLSEN | Mar 08, 2011 10:57pm | #6

   is toilet cleanout required

   thanks again for the reply

   what about toilet cleanouts, is there a code requirement for a toilet having a cleanout? Obviously make sense and I'd prefer to have one on the exterior of the house (which will be about  3 feet of the toilet).  By not having the cleanout under the house it  will greatly simply the drain routing under the house since toilet is near the room corner. The entire path from toilet to cleanout on the outside of house is two 90 elbows and maybe two 22.5 degree elbows or whatever you call them.

1. 
   rdesigns | Mar 09, 2011 09:28am | #7

   Since you're in SOCAL, you must be on the California Uniform Plumbing Code, which is essentially the UPC with Cal. amendments.

   This will affect the requirements on cleanouts. On top of that is the interpretation of your local inspector. So, talk to him.

   Your idea of having the cleanout on the outside is practical, but a strict interpretation of the code calls for a cleanout for every 135 degees of horizontal bends, but there are also confusing exceptions listed. Every inspector will have his own ideas about how to apply the code--so, again, talk to him.

1. 
   KWOLSEN | Mar 09, 2011 09:23pm | #8

   one more cleanout question....

   ok, thanks for the code on the 135 degrees, I will talk to city inspector tomorrow.  I can put the cleanout under the house (and outside 3 feet away as well ), but problem with it under the house is that from clean out cap opening to concrete foundation is about 12 in.  I doubt I'd ever have to snake at this location since the outside cleanout would be 2.5 feet away, but if I did, is 12 in of clearance enough to get a snake in ?

6. 
   KWOLSEN | Mar 10, 2011 10:41am | #9

   ok, thanks for the reply. Looks like I will have to change my design and move the cleanout to meet the 18" req because now it is 12".  I have about 20" of vertical clearance so I wont be forced to bring it to outside of house.  Frankly, I doubt this cleanoout would ever be used.  I think a plumber would be more inclined to removed the toilet and snake from above, I would,  compared to dragging snake under the house.  Also, I will put a cleanout 3 feet away on outside of house which they would try first.  Regardless, thanks for your replies, going to talk with city inspector today.

7. 
   KWOLSEN | Mar 13, 2011 10:31pm | #10

   air pressure testing of new plumbing supply lines

   drains installed, inspector said I needed to pressure test the drains with temporary 10 ft long 3" ABS connected to roughed in toiley pointing towards sky filled with water, passed with flying colors.  So, before I start rigging up pressure gauge and fittings to a compressor to test the soon to be installed copper lines for bathroom sink and toilet, is there any special that needs to be done ?  Just add a ball valve and whatever fittings to make it work ?  What test pressure and for how long?

   Our house has great water pressure, about 85psi.  I have fresh 1 1/4"copper to meter at street.  Had real plumber rough in a bath remodel 7 years ago, he basically ran 3/4" copper under house the for each sink and toilet he ran 1/2" up the walls to the sinks/toilets.   Is this the way to do it?

   what about wall thickness of copper pipes, are the choices type L or M?  Should I use the thicker wall crap just to be safe, it wont be burried undergroud, just expposed in underhouse crawl space.

   thanks for your advice.

1. 
   rdesigns | Mar 16, 2011 04:46pm | #11

   Sorry for the delay--been out of town the last 2 days.

   The pressure test for the new water lines will simply be to turn the water into them to see if they leak.

   Type M copper is all you need for inside the building. It will last longer than you do, or, more to the point, longer than I will, so I won't be around to hear any complaints. :-)

   The size of the lines will depend on the total of fixtures and on the distances involved. Hard to say without more info.

   85# is a lot--the code actually wants no more than 80#, but an extra 5# probably won't create an issue.