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I have a customer who has purchased some cast porcelain shower pans (the manufacturer is Cesame) and asked me to install them. I cannot figure out how to set these pans so that the joint between the bottom of the wall tile and pan is completely leak proof. See the attached image for details on how the manufacturer suggests I install these. I am wondering if anyone has dealt with these pans before.
Thanks!
– Narendra Varma
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Replies
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I'd say you should proceed as per the diagram, with one exception. The exception is that you should install the pan before any work is done on the walls. This includes the tile backerboard.
One, it would be easier to fit the pan. Two, the tile and backerboard would not be flush with the pan perimeter. Three, the wall tile will "lip out" over the pan edge to provide a better seal.
The use of a really good caulk at the joint in question would stop any water penetration. Don't use a latex acrylic, instead use a butyl or silicon caulk. Of course, you know not to grout that joint.
Something you haven't mentioned is how you plan to bed the pan.
*I agree with Rich - put the pan right up against the studs, then run both the backer board and the tile down almost to the pan. Caulk both the joint between the backer board and the pan as well as between the tile and the pan - like the diagram below.
*Thanks for the advice! One the local "gurus" at the local tile supply place suggested that I "build" a flange using Hardibacker epoxied on to the sides of the pan. See the attached image for details. What do you think of this idea? Do you think it would be overkill?Thanks,- Narendra Varma
*Rich,I have also always put the pan in first,set into sand mix,and I do one other thing before setting the pan. I cut out about 3/8" from the bottom of the studs and push the pan in tight so it is actually set into the studs a bit.This makes for a flat wall when you put the backerboard on.
*Narendra, RE: your last post (3.0) I really don't see any problems with the design of this so called "flange". Yet, there may be some problems with the installation. F'rinstance, unless you get this in plane with the tile substrate, er, backerboard, you'll probably have a small "bulge" in the tiled wall down at the pan. Another thing is that installing this flange will be tantamount to making the pan wider and taller (thickness and height of the flange). What good would this do?If the flange is intended for waterproofing, why not bed the tile backerboard in epoxy--at least at the tile/pan joint? If it is for added strength in the wall, why not put 2x blocks between the wood studs?Basically, while it seems innovative, I think it is overkill in that there are easier, simpler, less expensive ways to deal with whatever your tile guru's thoughts were when he thought up the flange.