*
Re-doing the last five rows of tile in shower.
Looks like the original tiles were set on green board using a
paste-like glue instead of a tile mortar mix.
1. Is this a standard practice now? to use a glue instead of a
thin-set?
2. Is this waterproof?
3. Any other pro or con ?
Lighting up an exterior isn't just about ambiance— it's also about code compliance. Here is what the code says about safety and efficiency when it comes to outdoor lighting.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
*
Hey Don,
First question that needs to be answered is WHY are you replacing the last 5 rows of tiles?
And yes, the adhesive you are looking at is most likely a tile adhesive (looks almost like glue), and no this is not standard practice. This stuff is used a lot on kitchen walls, bath walls, etc... but NEVER should be used in a shower/tub environment.
It is possible that it is some form of mastic, which is commonly used in showers/tubs.
The reason you have to replace these tiles will be a determining factor in how you should go back with the last 5 rows.
James DuHamel
*Greenboard is wholly inappropriate in a shower. I would scrap the whole thing.
*Cement board is the best application, but greenboard works fine if you maintain the grout and caulk properly, not letting water penetrate the wall. I work for a large hotel chain and I was surprised to find that in the last two properties I have worked in, greenboard has been used in the showers. One hotel is 15 years old, the other is 2 years old. I don't know if this is the standard in the construction industry. I would guess that the architects don't specify what kind of backer to use in the showers and the builder just goes with the cheapest route. We did replace a lot of shower walls in the older property at about 10 - 12 years, but that was due to poor maintenance of the grout and caulk.
*Cement board or dens sheild are the only way to go for a backer. Forget about just replacing 5 rows of tile & expecting it to last. Ain't gonna work unless you never use the shower.Call your home owners insurance. Alot of the showers/ tubs I do the insurance picks up part or all of the expense.
*I agree that a cement backer board is really the best for shower tile. But it is rare. I've reworked a lot of showers in tract homes and appartments. I estimate that something like 90 percent of them have tile stuck directly to greenboard using a flexible mastic.Of course this is why they're needing rework. They last 15 to 30 years and then turn to mush. If something cracks the grout, they may not even last 15 years.I'm guessing you had to remove five rows in order to replace the shower pan. How old is the home? Look very closely at the rest of the grout lines (use a magnifying glass) Any hairline cracks will admit water and cause trouble sooner or later.You can put up some new greenboard and five rows of tile. If you do this, don't use standard thinset. Use an acrylic mastic that is designed specifically for greenboard.But I look at it this way: The new pan was the most difficult part. You've got the door off maybe you're looking at a new door. How about the valve assembly? How old is it? I would seriously consider taking full advantage of this opportunity to update the valve and use cement backer board for a complete new tile job.There are several good books...Including one from Taunton (imagine that!) SETTING TILE by Michael Byrne. Probably the best of all.
*James:We were continually re-grouting the bottom course of tile. And we weregetting mildew all the time. The tiles seemed to wiggle when the groutcracked. Pulling off the last five rows of tile we confirmed oursuspicision. Green board stopped three inches above floor!.We also wanted to replace two rows with a decorative tile.The house is 10 years old. If there is no other apparent damage shouldwe continue or demolish the entire shower and start over? Tile alsoruns around outside of tub (whcih we never use) so we would have to replace this as well as we cannot match old tile.
*We were continually re-grouting the bottom course of tile. And we weregetting mildew all the time. The tiles seemed to wiggle when the groutcracked. Pulling off the last five rows of tile we confirmed oursuspicision. Green board stopped three inches above floor!.We also wanted to replace two rows with a decorative tile.The house is 10 years old. If there is no other apparent damage shouldwe continue or demolish the entire shower and start over? Tile alsoruns around outside of tub (whcih we never use) so we would have to replace this as well as we cannot match old tile.NO apparent damage to the shower pan(whcih is a concrete pad. No damage to the shower head.
*Don,If the last 5 rows of tiles are all that you are removing, and the rest of the wall seems to be in good shape, then you can just use a cement backer board. I see no need to remove everything and start over. That would be a MAJOR undertaking, and unnecessary if everything is still in good order.Dense shield and Wonderboard are the only two available in my area, so check to see what brand is available in yours. You will need to make it 1/2" thick no matter what you use.Just install the backer board like you would drywall (using screws made for the backerboard). Use a good quality mastic for the adhesive, and make sure you fill the seam between the backerboard and existing drywall first. Smooth it out as best you can, and let it dry. Then install the new tiles and let the mastic set. When you go back and grout, do not grout the seam between the floor pan and the last row of tiles. Instead, use a premium quality bath tub grade caulking/sealant here. If your greenboard wall has lasted this long, then you won't have a problem (so long as you keep maintaining the grout).Happy hunting...James DuHamel
*Thanks James for your input..
*
Re-doing the last five rows of tile in shower.
Looks like the original tiles were set on green board using a
paste-like glue instead of a tile mortar mix.
1. Is this a standard practice now? to use a glue instead of a
thin-set?
2. Is this waterproof?
3. Any other pro or con ?