Help I am a first time ceramic tile setter and I understand how to layout my tiles by dry fitting and using the 3-4-5 rule but I have a rookie question.
When I put the mortar on the floor ready to set the tiles doesnt that remove my line so that I lose my point of reference?
I dont want my rows to run off and make my room look crooked.
Thanks for your input.
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
Take a comfortable number of tile to set within arms reach. Maybe a 3' x 3' area. Figure the layout of tile in that area (make it full tile, adjust the size of the area). Now, mark out the whole job with that "grid" pattern (pleasing to the eye as far as overall layout). Chalk the pattern of the grid on the floor. Being a bit carefull, only lay your thinset within that grid. You will have to place by eye the tile within that grid or use those tile pins to separate the tile.
I'm sorry, it sounded easier until I started to type it. Can you make heads or tails of what I'm trying to describe?
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Following you on your description. I have used peel & stick tiles before and I know how to correct if I see I am going crooked. Just a little off and the rest of the room is off.
That's what scares me about ceramic because if I'm a little off by the end of the room I may be alot off. I will try to not mortar over the marking lines and hope for the best.
Thanks
What kind of tile are you setting, how big is the grout joint?
You can make that grid smaller if you wan't.
Or, you can get the pins to match whatever thickness grount joint you want to use. Get that first row right on and the pins will keep you consistent (I think, never used them).
Best of luck.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cant thank you enough. I am going to use 3/16 spacers and now I feel confident enough to give this a try.
Thanks
Jim, the tile setting will only be as good as what you set it on.
Describe the room and the way the floor is framed. Size of room, joist direction, span, size and the thickness of the subfloor.
I'm no tile guy, just have helped my floor guy and tried to pick up as much as I could from him, these guys here and whatever other smart teaching I could find. Get all the right info, products and set that tile on the proper base.............for all I know you already said it was on concrete.........and you'll do good. Think about layout and dryfitting some of the complicated cuts b/4 you put down the thinset.
Best of luck.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Just a thought --How much time do I have to correct the tile If I see it is off my marks?
Also is it best to use a level on the individual tiles or a larger one across a few at a time?
You can pry up a tile and reset for a bit (need to redo the thinset and / or butter the tile.)
Boy, again a tough question to answer. Most of it is done by feel. I've seen guys use a rubber float to evenly tamp the tile down (8x8's or so) but not often. The grooves in the thinset if spread properly (and mixed correctly) will evenly support the tile. You might have to adjust slightly to it's neighboring tile, by pressing down. You don't have much time to readjust, once the tile is set the thinset drys off pretty quick. If you move it, you'll need to pull it up and redo the thinset.
There's a book by Byrne that is at the taunton book store, or look for it in the library. A good primer on how to do it and shouild help you alot.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Let me add another suggestion to Calvin's advice.
What I do is find the center of the layout, and drive one nail there. Then I'll use the 345 rule to extend two perpendiculars through that point out to the walls, driving a nail at each end of both those lines. Then I stringline it nice and tight and hold the string about an inch up off the floor.
Now I can trowel on my thinset under the string, and lay my key rows along each stringline being very careful and using spacers (which I place vertically, so I can pull them and re-use them later, BTW). Once I've got the two key rows laid, I can pull the stringlines. I now have four perfect 90-degree corners to work out from, and the rest of the room is easy to do using and reusing the spacers. It looks like this:
View Image
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Nice helpful post Dino! A picture is worth a thousand words. (and easier to read)" If I were a carpenter"
Thanks; I 'just happened' to have shot a few (30 or so, LOL!) pix of that job, in case I ever needed them (to prove compliance in a guarantee dispute; to write a how-to article; to prove completion; whatever...).
There are some tiles (mostly commercial kitchen models) which are self-spacing, i.e.: they have lugs cast into them that space off neighbouring tiles but are thinner than the tile itself so they don't show through the grout line. This can darn near double your speed, needless to say.
But they're expensive....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
I use mason line to make a X and Y axis. I use 3D penny nails for ends and to hold the line about 1/2" up in the air. I make one end of the line a loop knot. This way I can remove the line in order to spread the thinset. Then I put the line back.
I also use a 6 foot level to check for level.
Edited 10/10/2005 11:37 pm ET by handygman
Here's a tip that maybe you can use.
After you have your layout and have set your lines down, try this: Secure a straightedge (I use 6' and 4' metal rules, like big yardsticks) Use anything that is straight and that you can secure temporarily to the floor along one or more lines.
I have at times secured the edges at a right angle to each other, depends on the room, layout, tile size,etc.
Now spread your thinset and set the first tile against the edge. Now it is exactly where it goes. Use your spacers to set the subsequent tile, making sure that the tiles follow the straightedge.
You can pull the edge fairly early on, now you have a good start.
Luck.
The heck, you say?
Just trowel up to your layout lines, leaving the line visible on your axis. Or if you feel more comfortable butter the backs of the tiles and set to layouts.Once you have the layouts set, trowel the thin set on for field for areas that you can reach, set tiles repeat. Use the spacers for desired thickness of grout lines, stand them up instead of laying them flat in the corners. Use two spacers on every side. Set tiles down flat as close as possible to desired grout thickness insert spacer and bump tile to it.
For real long runs I will usually line block (ie:dry line) longest axis. Set one tile down (no thinset) at one end and another at other end. Anchor line on top of these two tiles with full tile box, nail, screw, whatever, keep line nice and tight, and lay to dry line, which coincides with snapped lines on floor.
One last idea.
Draw your layout grid with a sharpie. I prefer a 24" grid. Makes a workable area that I can easily reach across, and works for 12",8",6" or 4" tiles. Remember, the grid lines have to be the size of your tiles PLUS the width of the desired grout line between the tiles.
First spread your thinset over the area to be tiled using the un-notched edge of the trowel. Work it in to get good purchase on the cement board.
Then come back with the notched side. When you draw the notched edge over the cbu and take some thinset away, you should be able to see your sharpie lines in the troughs/goorves of the thinet.
On the line that will be at my knees I use metal straight edge temporarily fixed to the floor and bring the tiles to that reference line.
It gives confidence having a fixed reference that doesn't need to be checked and rechecked over and over. Just set your chosen long line against the edge and go.
If you want set a second edge at right angles to the first; then you're really locked in, a straight line and one that's square to it.
I don't have a laser level (yet), but I was thinking of getting one for my next tile job. I would get an inexpensive one that produces right-angle lines, set it up where it won't get disturbed and then use the lines to lay out the quadrants.
Has anyone tried this method?
-Don
Often times, after I've confirmed my layout, I'll temporarily screw a 10' long metal stud to the subfloor to use as a guide to line up my first row of tiles. Spacers will keep you in line from there.
The Breaktimer formerly known as "Steve-O"
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi