I’m about to tackle a drywall job and would like to try a setting type compound – Durabond 90.
Any tips on keeping your tools clean? Do you clean up all tools with water just as other types of compound? If the compound should harden on a tool or in a bucket, how do you get it off?
Thanks in advance.
You get out of life what you put into it……minus taxes.
Marv
Replies
Marv,
When you say you are about to tackle a drywall job, it sounds as if you do not drywall on a regular basis. If this is the case, Durabond 90 is probably not the best choice of mud. Your working time will only be about 45-50 minutes, and when it starts to set you'd better head for the water hose with your tools, etc. Water is all you need to clean your tools before it sets, after that you can just start chipping and scraping! Another thing to keep in mind with the durabond is that it gets really hard when it sets and is extremely difficult to sand.
If you're stuck on using a setting-type of compound, maybe think about using Durabond 210 for setting the tape and then switch to a lightweight, easy-sand setting compound for the next two coats. This can also be purchased in different set times. Usually the working time is a little more than half of the time listed on the product. Durabond 210 gives you about 120 minutes approx. .It says on the bag!
Keep in mind the same cleaning procedures apply with the easy-sand setting types. Try to get your tools,bucket, hawk, etc. clean before it hardens too much. Also if you are left with little chunks and pieces in your mix bucket, etc., it can be frustrating when they show up in your finish coat.
I don't mean to ramble, but one other thing about using the Durabond if you use it to set the tape , be careful not to end up with high spots that will interfere with your finish coats. This happened to me, and when I did my finish sanding, the mud around this area sanded nice and smooth and I was left with a hump wherever the Durabond was a little too thick. Good luck!
An additional point for cleanliness... if you leave residue in the bucket then mix up another batch, I've had trouble with the stuff going off REAL fast compared to normal. It's like there's a catalytic response or something but you can avoid it by cleaning after every round. And if you're pretty new to mud work, this rule of thumb will help... less is better. Even if you have to put four coats on, putting them on thin keeps you from making major goofs with thick spots.
It's like there's a catalytic response or something but you can avoid it by cleaning after every round.
It's the slurry effect. Speeds up the setting time real good.
Instead of Durabond use the Sheetrock setting type. It is "sandable" and will clean with water after setting (more elbow grease needed).
No, don't. Easy Sand is not made for setting tape.
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
I just checked on the USG web site and while easysand is not #1 for setting tape there is not mention not to use it with tape.
Knock yourself out"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Easy Sand can be used for laminating two boards together and then removing the screws..so then why cannot it be used to apply paper tape? I've been doing it for years..no problem.. Another benefit is that the setting compounds are not affeced by humidity as regular joint compounds are.
Thanks to all for you respones. I want to try the setting compound because the tape fell off the ceiling in my garage and I want something that will stick like glue.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
I'm just a weekender. I like to use the setting compound because it feels like it's a higher quality product. I mix it one tray at a time with the Mrs's hand mixer. The 90 is about right for a larger job. With the setting compound, I don't sand, I'll scrape the high spots off. I'll then use a standard compound for my final coat. I have been using unbedded fiberglass tape and have never had a problem.
I'm pretty anal about my drywall. I hate texture, so I'll just roll the paint on with a 3/8" nap roller. Any imperfection will show through and I've been pretty lucky lately.
I would not advise using Durabond if you are a novice. It is mostly plaster and hardens as such, and cannot be sanded. That's not to take away from the great qualities of the stuff, I just think you would be much better off to do it the way most professional tapers do with the USG green as the tape bed and switch to the lighter blue bucket for your finish.
What about keeping a bucket of water handy and tossing tools in, a stiff brush like a tire brush will knock them clean when you are finished.
setting compopunds dry by a chemical reaction..even keeping the tools in water will not stop the hardeing process.
Thanks for the enlightenment! Bob
Zano is right, plaster or setting compounds are not dry when they first harden. Their molecular structure is changed by rehydration usually resulting in an exothermic reaction. For taping and spackling you are better off using regular spackle either ready mix or in powder form, which are hard when they are dry and can then be sanded easily. Spackling and plastering are different from one another. They can be combined but one really should know how to do both before that is attempted. Don't lay the spackle on too heavy, learn to feather the edges and remember that you are building up the material in successive coats. Don't try and make it near perfect with the first or second coat. Good luck.