looking for mixing valve to supply an outdoor shower…
would like to preset the temp output and remote locate the valve (inside of the home to avoid freeze up) with the shower head outdoors…
current HW supply is approximately 170 degrees…
turning the actual water flow on and off would be accomplished with a selenoid or zone valve… in turn this to be operated but an air over electric single push button….
rummaged around the internet but didn’t see anything that caught the eye…
you folks got any ideas???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming <!—-><!—-><!—->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Replies
Someone makes a regular style frostproof sillcock. It has a built in mixing valve. Saw it at the plumbing outlet last week. Sorry I dont remember the brand.
something like this. maybe?http://www.moen.com/browsecatalog/productcatalog/outdoorsillfaucet.cfmjose c.
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"Though I don't think" added Deep Thought "that you're going to like it."
thanks..
that is worth considering...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
frostproof sillcocks ? why not 2 both routed to a shower head... then no need to preset temps?
or... use a lav faucet inside with the senor (commercial rest rooms) and just move the senor outside and route the flow to the showerhead?
dude... ur the answer guy... :)
p
the target is 102/103 water temp....
the shower is going to be used at subzero temps... so there is a bit of planning to be thought out...
the idea is to hit a push button and the water flows... being on a timed shut off is a plus...
I thought of an air switch on the push button... that goes to air relay... the relay fires up a timemark relay.. the timemark fires off the solenoid.. the water flows... water temp controled by a mixer valve...
this allows the mixer / supply to be deep inside of the heated structure... the pipping to the shower head is to be a down hill config so that all all plumbing drains at the completion of the shower.... in theroy a burst of cool / cold water isn't likely or very brief...
hmmmmmm... ya think a gravity recirculator is something to be looked into???
the shower basin and drain trough is radiant heated...
so what fool / bullet proof mixer is to be had???
the real item though is the valve activation or in line solenoid...
couldn't find much...
BTW the target flow rate is to be a minimum of 5/6GPM for 4 minutes....
I got me ideas but no answers...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Who the hell is going to take an outside shower in sub zero temps? Water flowing on the front side feels good while my a$$ is freezing.I can think of a few body parts that are not going to be very happy with this arrangement. I don't care how drunk you think I am.
it's more of a rinse off after getting out of the mineral saturated hot tub water...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If you can stand a fixed tempature then you can get an adjustable tempering valve.
If you want it "user" adjustable (but from the inside) you can tempature adjusting valves.
The resent thread on shows some oone used a temp control vavle and separate flow valve.
You also need to drain out the water. There is auto drain valve used on sprinklers. They close when when there is water pressure on them and drain when the water is off.
The problem is that they are designed to drain into a gravel bed. So you would need suspend it over a floor drain or basin. Need the air gap also.
http://www.wateright.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=419
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u120147
I also did a search on -outdoor drinking fountain drain- and came up with this.
"Q: Our drinking fountains typically have to be shut down from November through March, or the pipes are liable to burst. Are there any options that will allow us to provide park patrons with drinking water year-round?
A: Warm-weather parks departments don't have to worry about the freezes that come with winter weather. But if you live in the colder parts of the country, you likely are draining the water lines and keeping the water turned off during the winter months.
You should consider purchasing a drinking fountain that is freeze-protected. There are several ways a freeze-protected fountain can operate, but the most recent innovation is a buried valve that keeps water below the frost line.
Some of these models will drain the water below the frost line as soon as the button on the fountain is released. In areas where this is not allowed due to sanitary and building codes, look to newer models that do not drain water into the ground. Instead, these models hold the water below the frost line until another person comes up to push the button and get a drink. As their drinking water comes up, the former patron's waste water is put into the drain."
A search in that area would be helpful.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Here is the message that I was thinking about.From: RobWes Feb-25 10:23 pm
To: CCI (6 of 16)
101407.6 in reply to 101407.5 Grohe, product # 34 902 Sorry it's a 1997 vintage number. It's easily cross referenced.It's the rough in thermostat valve only. You need to add the volume control. Just be sure to use nothing but 3/4 NPT valve bodies.I have old spare heads on the shelf. I'll get that number as I don't have it handy.The stuff is not too bad on the jobber price scale. It will move some water. I've spec'd and built a few. I can get exact numbers 3-7-08. All the cut sheets are at the other house.BE SURE you have enough water entering the building. They have a great website with all the needed information.----------.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
got it...
thanks....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
there is such a high temp of HW on demand it scares me...
I want to remove the idiot clause out of turning on the water... no personal valve turning allowed.... this the temp ya get...
draining the line for the shower feed aver the valve config I think I have worked out.... that will drain into the basin...
electric water valves from the sprinkler hardware bin can't take the heat.... 2/3 weeks and they are toast..
which recent thread are you referring to???
thanks fer yer input Bill..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I hever suggested an irrigation solenoid valve.Just the auto drain. And they are availalble in brass. Although I don't know what the internal parts of them are.If the hot water is comming from a high temp boiler (160 or more) I would suspect that you would want to put in a tempering valve to get the HW down to maybe 110 before it get to the mixing valve..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
the solenoid is after the mixer and before the head...
it's the guts that fail...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
what say you????
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
How far away from the "conditioned" space?
How lond do you want to wait for water?
Standard hydronic mixing valve & a zone valve will control all that you need. Line voltage zone valve plugged into an air switch box from a garbage disposal will work just fine.
Someone in BT was trying to sell some mixing valves---- maybe they still have them.
“The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
15' and we're off to the races...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
You could use one of these to drain it.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00004S1T9/ref=nosim/neoset-20
“The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
the current plan is to install the mixer then the solenoid and run the 18' horizontally thru heated space in 1" copper at a down slope of 26" OA to the outdoors and the triple rain heads...
you think that will work???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yeah, but you're going to have a time delay filling that 18' + the outdoor pipe with water.
“The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
I think that might okay...
the solenoid can be put in any place....
once in a great while a 16" frostproof will freeze up - up here.....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!