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just bought a william&hussey machine its about 10 years old, rebuilt it from the floor up .To hurry things uphow do i wire it up, 110?220? either/or? any pointers,heads ups, would appreciate any help cheers kipcarp
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Kip, the one I've used was wired 220. Sweet machine, have fun using it!
*I think you always want to wire for 220 when you have the option.
*Kip: That is a fine machine. 220 is the way to go. You may want to get the speed reduction kit. Also, you can make a real simple jig for circular work instead of the $600 that they sell. I would be more than happy to show you how I made mine.
*Mine is wired 110V only because I use it on site often for large jobs. For a shop set up I would definitely go with 240. The motor will run cooler and deliver more work. The cord cooler too. On startup, mine draws 29 amps and then runs at about 15amps. Hit a knot or gnarly wood and it flips the breaker which is a pain.
* - thanks for the post, would appreciate a peak at the circle /elliptical jig . i thought 600 for aflat plane, over-sized bearing, and a threaded crank was a bit steep. one more thing, with a 220 volt what do i need i changed over to a 200 amp service so at the box i'm all set. now i know i need a 220 plug, what kind of wire? is there a max on length i was figuring 4-6 ft , and how about the switch?>>> thanks kip
*12-2 will run it fine. You may want a little longer cord to allow for more movement. A DPDT switch will control it.
*I used a SquareD manual motor starter...looks like a regular switch, but has a thermal overload protection built in. You can get them at about any major electrical supply place.Good source for knives I just found is moldingknives.com and talk to Craig. Small Canadian outfit ( the prices on their site are Canadian dollars....multiply by .63 for USD), but stock knives they ship within 24 hrs. and they even did some custom knives I needed for Andersen window trim in just a couple days.
*Stan you mentioned a speed reduction kit I wasn't aware of one. Is at a W&H kit or aftermarket? I am interested.Also would like more info on the circular jig. Can you do elliptical work with your version? Joe
*I'm wondering if you can adjust the feed rate on the powerfeed models? Are you saying that's what this speed reduction kit does, or does it slow the RPM of the motor? Seems like you'd want some ability to control one or the other. Are W&H direct drive, or belt driven, or chain, or what? Always heard good things about them, but I've never played on one.
*Williams&Hussey makes a speed reduction kit. It drops the fee rate from 15 fpm to 11 fpm. It does not slow the motor down.I have cut many elliptical and curved casings with my jig. It consists of three roller bearings. The outside has a single bearing and a pair of bearings rides on a dovetail sliding fence that is springloaded. These trio of bearings is right under the cutterhead. I would not consider doing this on anything other than a power feed. A WS7 has power feed in and out.
*I wish someone would talk about setting up Luka&aHussey. In this case, you should pay more attention to quality than to speed.b : )
*legs- w-h are belt to chain driven , simple very effective 3/4 " tops out the depth, and 6 3/4" wide is maxxed.with two blades with dedicated threaded holes takes some of the guess work out of the set up. with this machine plus my shaper i bought 2years +. i can duplicate pretty much any thing( i do alot of restoration work). hey bye-the-bye the maiden voyage of mine was today. thanks very much to everyone. cheers kipcarp
*I imagine that the feed rate reduction must involve a different gear on that drive. I didn't know they had this option. They also have three different hardnesses of feed rollers for the uninitiated.