Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 1999 07:37pm | #1

   *
   Morning Dennis,

   Is there any weight consideration with your renovations?

   Snow load, (if yes, any odd shapes that would trap an unusual amount of snow etc.)roofing material loading (concrete tiles, slate, clay tiles,).

   Shallow pitched roofs can really limit the products you use depending on where in the country you're located.

   Higher quality 30 year shingles may be the way to go with additional tar under the tabs.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 1999 07:41pm | #2

   *Dennis,Your opinions are right on. A 2.5 pitch is simply not steep enough for standard shingles. Water will not move fast enough over them, and may get up inside them, and destoy the plywood. You need a 3 and 12, or greater.Depending on where you live you could get by with them, if as you suggest, you use a good underlayment. Here in California, the building inspector, when I pull a permit for a roof (which is not that often), has apporoved a 2.5 roof for shinges if we use peel and stick rubberized underlayment (also called Fire and Ice, in other locals). This can either replace or enhance 30 lb felt. Certainly no OSB here right?Standing Seam Metal (as opposed to ribbed metal roofing) is quite expensive, and we don't even do it. I sub it out to a sheet metal shop. Full coat of Peel and Stick under it as well. You can colorize the roof material now, so they don't look so god awful.Good Luck!

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 1999 10:16pm | #3

   *I have used ice and water shield with arc. shingles at 2.0 pitch with good results. I saw a 1 in 12 roof protected with ONLY ice and water shield for four years before it was covered with EPDM with no leaks.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 02:24am | #4

   *I researched low pitch metal roofing. Some are just not recommended. Some manufacturers spec a gasket in the standing seam or will rent you a machine to crimp the standing seam. Otherwise not warrantied water tight. Old fashioned copper with soldered seams would work but $$$$$$.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 03:35am | #5

   *First, I thought I did an an answer post, but I don't see it. If this is a repeat, please ignore. Thanks for the advice. I think I shall go with the fire and ice or peel and stick. The building is 35 years old, two layers of conventional shingles and no leaks or load problems. 2x6 rafters, 16" on center, 12' horizontal span - well within limits as I understand them and a good history. I would like to do copper, but too time consuming and I saw a neat cottage, small home in a flyer by FHB with a sand, tan colored siding and a dull red shingle roof. I am trying to learn Frontpage and HTML and if successful want to put pictures of my project on the Web for comments. You guys are pros and I have learned a great deal and avoided some mistakes.Dennis

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 05:43am | #6

   *Dennis,I trust you mean the peel and stick as a membrane under the shingles. Yes?Rich Beckman

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 02:19am | #7

   *Have had good luck with membrane and shingles with 4" exposure.

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 04:07am | #8

   *Yup - ABC handles some that is called "water and ice" and is 40 mils thick. Going to couple that with some 30 to 40 year shingles and hope that does it for what remains of my life span. May be I'll get lucky and out live them, but darned if I will worry about that much.Dennis

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 05:16pm | #9

   *Dennis,The method you outlined will prob.work out OK,but don,t count on 30or40 yr shingles lasting anywhere near their rated lifespan on that flat of a pitch.Also If you are in a ice and snow climate you may expect more prob's then a warmer climate.Good Luck,Stephen

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 02:20am | #10

   *Got to think positively. But, just in case, I will read the warrantee carefully. Maybe the inspector won't miss 1/2" of pitch. Same idea, different thread - you would be amazed at the number of mufflers, etc. I have had replaced on my 18 year old car.Dennis