Hello everyone, I’m hoping to find some carpenters out there to help answer a few questions and share your knowledge. Google can only help so far and it seems a few times Ive got some bad direction lol.
I’m in the process of my first residential plan.
Thanks to any of you sweet sweet souls that wouldnt mind sharing.
Replies
Let it rip.
This a good place for camaraderie and a sucker punch.
I've attached a view of the back of the house with a section reference line, along with the section view itself. My question this go round is about general framing, on the second story top plate mating to the rafters, is this acceptable? i have the seat notch at 3".
someone told me that rim joists have to be used everywhere, so if that's true then this wouldn't be possible to do, which raises questions in other places lol.
Please let me know what other atrocities i've made on here lol
thanks everyone.
So I have had this situation happen before in a house we framed. Instead of cutting the joist cut the studs at the same angle as your roof pitch. Use a double top plate. Make sure the leading edge of the plates line up. You could frame this on the floor if your heights are matching across the span of the joists and the floor . It might be easier to stick frame it though so there are no gaps or variations in your stud heights.
That's how nearly every roof I've ever cut detailed at the outside walls. Nail to the plate, nail to the ceiling joist. The downside is there's less insulation at that point. Solution, and what I did on my own house, is as you say, to use a rim joist. Run a plate along the top of it, and connect back to the ceiling joists with straps. Get an engineer to detail this. Not a big deal.
Without getting into the structural aspect, it seems you may be creating a cold corner. Back in the day, this was a pretty common technique for dropping rafters right onto the top plate with a birdsmouth notch. A 2x10 rafter would wind up leaving 7" of vertical space and then a vent channel would knock that down to 5" of insulation space. When oil was cheap it and houses "breathed" all over it wasn't an issue. With a tighter house, modern materials, and more expensive energy it's a little different.
This is why they make raised heel trusses.
Not sure what the rim joist requirement is, but you should check with your local building department since they will ultimately have more authority on this then some yahoos on the interwebs.
Would it still be possible to have room in a roof with a raised heel truss? Forgive me for this lol, I was under the impression a truss had to be "webbed?" Along the full span on the truss which wouldn't allow an interior?
Thanks for your input
So I have had this situation happen before in a house we framed. Instead of cutting the joist cut the studs at the same angle as your roof pitch. Use a double top plate. Make sure the leading edge of the plates line up. You could frame this on the floor if your heights are matching across the span of the joists and the floor . It might be easier to stick frame it though so there are no gaps or variations in your stud heights. Also we normally would pay an insulator to spray your roof with foam . Which is also a vapor barrier and gives a much tighter house. It might not be the norm where you live though and can be expensive with as much roof as you have.
Any takers?
I'd get a review by a structural engineer. Getting a go/no-go on this (or any other) forum is pretty risky on something this large. Best of luck to you.
On my final draft I will be meeting with someone to comb this over, but also trying to get as far as I can on my own before I do all that. Kinda like - I'm selling a home rightnow and I just went over to trim any stray branches that are getting too close to the house before the inspection ya know?