Replies

1. 
   finefinish | Feb 15, 2014 11:37pm | #1

   In an ideal world the sheathing would split the second floor frame's rim joist in half.  This rarely works out if the second story is an afterthought.  Otherwise, it is good to have the second floor's wall sheathing lap onto the rim joist at leat 4 or 5 inches.  This will certainly help tie the 2 levels together.  

2. 
   jimatgreatwhite | Feb 16, 2014 08:13am | #2

   We have done it two ways, no make that three.

   Standard practice in CO, as faar as I knoow is to break the sheathing at the top plate and double plate intersection. Second floor sheathin woul then run over the floors rim and tie into the Plates of the first floor wall.. We have made the break in the middle of the double plate as well.

   Run the first wall sheathing twelve inches below the plate line with a row of blocking for the joint will give you a pretty good overlap.

    We also have just run whatever a full sheet will cover, with it taking care of the tie in at the bottom, and then ran blocks at the joint and let the remainder be covered by the overlapping second floor wall sheathing.

3. 
   deadnuts | Feb 16, 2014 07:18pm | #3

   how about the building plans?

   If you're builidng a 2nd story, then I assume your working from a set of structural plans that have been reviewed by a permitting authority. Seems to me you should be following the building plans that are specific to your structure and take into account braced wall panel requirements. Why don't you consult those primarily? I build in VA, but shouldn't your plans be drawn with consideration toward the requirmenets of the  applicable Rhode Island SBC sections?

4. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 20, 2014 01:55pm | #4

   I've never seen plans spec this. I try never to break the sheathing anywhere there's another joint, so that the sheathing reinforces the other connections and helps minimize air infiltration. I usually start sheathing at the mudsill, which breaks the sheathing midwall and a foot or so below the top plate on an 8ft. wall. The next sheet covers the 2nd floor rim joist and breaks about 2 ft. up the 2nd floor wall.

1. 
   deadnuts | Feb 20, 2014 10:49pm | #6

   Reality check

   Andy, the individual that originaly posted this question didn't differentiate structural from non-structural sheathing for his 2nd floor addition. There WILL BE structurally braced wall panels somewhere in the mix; it's unavoidable if he wants his addition to resist typical residentail lateral loads and not collapse.

   The IRC has addressed braced wall requirements for years. Look under section R602.10 for specifics. It's a structural issue and giving anecdotal advice on this issue, in my opinion, is folly. To my knowledge there are no individualized "best practices" for structural braced walls (which usually includes sheathing element) outside of the prescriptive code (at least in juridications that apply the current IRC requirements, which constitute the bulk of the U.S.). When you operate outside of prescriptive code, it requires a professinal engineering seal; which usually means an structural engineerng degree is involved. Do you have one? Also, just because you haven't seen plans calling out braced wall panel sections (with fastening schedules that are detailed in the IRC) doesn't mean it isn't done on a regular basis.

   Non structural sheathing? Do whatever you want that suits your fancy. However, I question your advice on breaking sheathing 1 foot below the top plate or 2' above the sole plate if your goal is to avoid air infiltration. This would require a lot of unneccecary  horizontal 2x blocking or seam tape.

5. 
   DanH | Feb 20, 2014 04:22pm | #5

   If you run the planks diagonally like God intended it shouldn't be a problem.