Replies

1. 
   plumbbill | Apr 29, 2007 02:49am | #1

   Single pitch? or is there a ridge?

   If there is a ridge, then it's the same as a house, right.

   If single pitch & using a 3 tab asphalt shingle, then I have seen a small piece of flashing installed over the top row then another row added to cover up the flashing.

   If it's a wood shingle, then all the ones I have seen just overhang a few inches.

   I fear no man & only one GOD. Me

1. 
   MSA1 | Apr 29, 2007 04:56am | #2

   Yeah, its single pitch three tab. I was thinking that was the way to do it (the flashing with the cut tabs covering it).

   Anyone have pictures of this?

1. 
   NEXTLEVEL | Apr 29, 2007 02:32pm | #3

   Is this shed roof attached to anything or is it free standing? All the shed roofs we have done have been attached to the house or garage or to something.  Shed roofs that are free standing look kinda odd.  Most shed roofs we do have a low pitch and we put painted steel on them.  With steel there is a piece of metal trim that goes all the way around to seal off the edges.

   If it has to be shingled then we put flashing under the shingles on the sides and bottom and over the shingles on the top.  Then you can shingle over the flashing on top to hide it.

   Sorry, I don't have any pictures.

   James

1. 
   MSA1 | Apr 30, 2007 02:37am | #8

   This is a freestanding structure. Its not gonna be attached to anything.

2. 
   Piffin | Apr 30, 2007 01:34am | #6

   By definition, a shed style roof does not have a ridge 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 29, 2007 10:00pm | #4

     

     Assuming a couple of things,   single pitch attached to a building, three tabs as you said .......use rake edge drip on rakes and standard drip edge on eave, shingle toward top, as you get to the intersecting wall,  install a strip of ice and water(Grace brand, is the only brand I use) wide enough to lap onto roof sheathing for 10" or so and onto last shingle laid or onto the felt paper,  lap it up onto the wall under the siding....install shingles to completion.....then install flashing (single piece, if possible, along whole length,)  on top of last row of shingles and up wall on top of ice and water but under siding, fasten with nails into sidewall not into roof, re-install siding, leaving flashing on roof exposed.    If you bend flashing so you have a little "spring" to it when you push it into place on roof and against wall, it will stay seated tightly against roof with no need for nails(into roof).......fewer penetrations = fewer posssible leaks!  Hope this makes sense to you,

                                                                                                                 Geoff

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 30, 2007 01:38am | #7

   Good description. This comes up so often I ought to do a drawing to insert once a month. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 30, 2007 09:23pm | #12

   Thanks Piffin,  but I guess my assumption was wrong, according to the later posts, it's a free standing structure!  figures, all that typing too!  :)   oh well....

   MSA1,  

   O.K. free standing, follow same details as before only don't use roll flashing, use rake edge drip (or regular drip if you prefer), applying it as the last layer, then fasten with as few nails as possible along bottom edge of flashing, you can also spray paint the drip to match the shingles, again, though the fewer nails the better, you could us a spot of roofing tar to adhere the drip if you want to suppliment the nails.

   One other thing, I would suggest you pitch this roof from front to rear (high to low)  rather than side to side, I think that will give a better appearance, and, give a little overhang all around for appearances as well.

                                                                                 Geoff  

   Edited 4/30/2007 2:44 pm ET by Geoffrey

3. 
   Schelling | Apr 29, 2007 11:48pm | #5

   If I was going to do this for a garage, I would run drip edge on all four sides and cover all with shingles. The top course would be cut off at the tabs and face nailed. You could cover the nails with tar and sprinkle loose grave on top to blend it in but I wouldn't do this on my own garage. I would be completely confident that this would not leak for the lifetime of the roof.

4. 
   Stilletto | Apr 30, 2007 02:48am | #9

   If you can wait a little bit I can get you pictures,  I start a huge barn project Tuesday. 

   It's a 110'x30' barn with a shed roof on it.  Gonna make a mess of it for a few days then put it back together. 

    

1. 
   MSA1 | Apr 30, 2007 03:06am | #10

   That would be great. I dont have to give this estimate till friday and shes not looking to gat the work done for about a month.

1. 
   Stilletto | Apr 30, 2007 03:32am | #11

   I'll get them,  hopefully this project won't take long.  But the list keeps growing everytime I talk to the guy.  They might be in time for you.