I need some advice on roofing my 8×10 shed.
The roof spans 8 ft, with a 30-inch rise in the middle. There are 14 rafters (7 on each side). Surface will be plywood with roofing felt and corrugated metal panels.
I’m having trouble finding a 12-ft ridge board that is absolutely straight. I’ve tried 3 different boards so far and they all have a slight twist, maybe 1/2″ to 3/4″ over the length of the board.
I know ideally all the rafters would be exactly the same length, and the ridge board would go exactly down the middle.
Do I keep looking for a perfect board? Does such a thing even exist?
Or should I just cut the rafters each a slightly different length, to fit the ridge board as it is?
Thanks for any input. I need to get this thing roofed before winter and am running out of boards to cut “sample” rafters!
Replies
Use a 1x ridge board, it's easier to twist it into shape than a 2x board. Or cut a 3/4" plywood ridge board (or double 3/4 inch if you planned on a 2x ridge board) because plywood is more stable than lumber. This is possible because you only need an 8' board, so it's not commonly done due to most ridges are longer than that.
Another question
Thanks for the feedback.
The board is 12 feet long, not 8 (the 8 ft measurement is from side to side, not end to end).
The ridge supports for the gable ends are already in, and they're sized for a 1.5" board.
Guess I could try a 1x ridge board, and figure out a way to secure it to my 1.5" end supports.
Or – I have a bunch of half-inch plywood – how about 3 layers of that? You said this would be OK for an 8' board, but mine is 12' - would that still work? I could alternate layers of 8 feet + 4 feet, with gorilla glue and screws ...
Thoughts?
Since this is a ridge board and not a ridge beam it doesn't carry any real load -- it's purely to hold the rafter ends in proper relationship to each other. (In fact, you could build without a ridge board, but keeping the rafters positioned until the sheathing was in place would be a PITA.) Other than the fact that it may give an inspector conniptions, there's no problem with using laminated plywood or some such.
Like Dan said, that would work fine tool.
If you aren't comfortable using a 1X use an LVL instead. It has everything you want plus great strength as well.
And 3 times as heavy and 4 times as expensive.
Tell us again, how many ridge boards have you installed?
Cut your rafters to the length and angle that they're supposed to be. Put them up using your 2x ridge board. Nail them as tight as you can. If the ridge board doesn't straighten out with the rafter nailing and roof loading you'll never be able to see the twist anyway.
Hope this isn't a stupid question but
Why is it so important that the ridge board be absolutely straight? Is a little twist at the end of the board dangerous? Or is it mainly cosmetic? Remember this isn't a house, just an 8x10 shed roof.
I've been trying to make everything as perfect as I can but this is coming down to getting it perfect – or getting it done.
I'm not trying to talk myself into building it wrong, just trying to understand why having it 100% straight is such a big deal, or even IF it's a big deal.
Like someone said, the board is mainly just there to hold the rafters in place while I get the plywood on. And I don't mind if you can see the twist (although its small enough that I didn't notice it myself until I tried to put the rafters on it).
This is the first shed I've built and I still have a lot to learn from pro's like you guys!
I truly appreciate your feedback and willingness to share what you know.
So Thanks!
It only needs to be as straight as you want it to be. A straight board will make hanging the rafters a hair easier, and really bad twist in the board could make the sheathing not want to lay flat. It's a matter of getting it straight enough.
user.
If the rafters are all cut the same and the walls are the same distance apart and well braced so there's no big ass 'd bow in them (even if they aren't long)..............
then,
The rafters will straighten the ridge. Keep them the same position at the top of the ridge
Top pcs of ply on each side-cut them straight-and lay on those shingles.
Thanks for the input, everyone!
I found a board that's straight enough – then re-measured and found out my front walls are about 3/8" farther apart than the back. So I cut the rafters to fit, and everything looks great!
Now I have a question about house wrap, but will post it separately.
Thanks again!
user
Helpful reminder for the next time.
Sight or stringline the walls first-as soon as they're up. Brace them, push them, pull them-straight.
All will be well-the rafters will all be the same.
of course, that starts from a good, right and straight foundation/floor system.