Does anyone have a recommendation for a good sheet metal brake to buy? I install a lot of windows and doors and want to bend my own copper flashing. I am not looking for a commercial brake, but want one that can make sharp bends (it doesn’t need to be portable.)
Thanks
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You got a Northern (Hydraulics) store nearby? The last time I was in one they had some cheap brakes.
I live on an island, so I would have to order anything I buy - I'm looking for a decent quality, medium-duty brake and am willing to spend some money for it, I'm just looking for recommendations from people who use them. Thanks.
Are you looking for an aluminum "C" bracket brake or a heavy duty shop brake? How long? I'm assuming a 10 footer.
For the former, I've had Tapcos and Van Marks. I like the Tapcos better, but the VanMarks are fine. I'd buy which ever one I could get the best deal on.
I have a Dries & Krumpf Chicago shop brake. Pexto, Niagra, Tennsmith and many other companies make good shop brakes. Mine is an early 60's model and I paid about $3500 for it 7-8 years ago.
If you buy used, make sure the brake is not sprung. The moveable apron will sag in the middle if it's been abused.
Good luck.
http://grantlogan.net/
I was born in a crossfire hurricane..........shooby dooby do
I have a 10' Tapco (work out to 10'6") and it is good -- bend Alu and CU and it has done very well - min bend is 1/2" -- has a couple of extras you can add - roll holder, slitter etc - but don't have these - only extra I ordered was the legs --Dudley
If you are trimming windows and doors and doing flashing for same----a 10 ft. brake might be more than you want or need----transport issues.
tapco makes a modest 8'6" size( i think called the "Windy" model--not too expensive---and does everything I have ever needed it to do------8'-6" size makes it convenient for transport and to set up and take down solo.
it's not the brake you want if you side entire house--a LOT--although i have sided a few-and it got the job done effectively. I bend copper pans and aluminum pans on mine for chimney flashing, w valleys etc.
( jim blogget has one he stole from me several years ago----he might let you have it cheap,LOL ;-) )
stephen
JC11
You can't beat Grizzly for prices and quailty.. go to grizzly.com a 48 inch pan and box break is $650.00 a 12 inch $225.00 and a 60 inch $1295. Shipping anyplace is $89.00 on the 48 inch
IT sounds like you could use their 41 inch at $550.
Frenchy--48inches is gonna severely limmit the windows and doors he can trim out.
for less than the price of the grizzly 60 inch he can get a much bigger tapco-and possibly vanmark as well.
stephen
I use the Vanmark 8'. It's a good size for transporting. Vanmark is a well known maker and has a good product. Get one with a D handle as opposed two separate sticks, you can do it with one hand and still get an even bend.
I have the Tapco 10'-6" Max. They make two lines, Pro and Max. The Pro is rated for 16 oz. copper, and the Max for 32 oz.
The Max can just barely work 32 oz, it's a real bear doing a full 8' piece. It's fine for a full 10' piece of 16 oz. I've never used the Pro, but if it's rated as optimistically as the Max, then I'd sure recommend going for the heavy duty one.
The Tapcos have a loose sheet stainless cover on the top and this plastic flap on the bottom that tends to move the workpiece when you clamp it. So, setting things up accurately is a pain. I found that making up notched gauge blocks was well worth while.
Be sure to get the rolling wheel cutter with it -- much neater than hand shears. It's only troublesome when you have wide pieces coming off, like cutting a full 3'x10' sheet in half the long way. (All my roof pans were like that).
-- J.S.
Hey man I se my brake almost every day. I have a 10'-6" Tapco Pro 19" I would not own a Van Mark brake as far as I know the Pro 19"is the only brake out there that I am aware of that will hem a piece of metal. You can bend outside corners, J- Channel , Brick Mold Cover with built in J- channel you can seperate yourself from your competion easy with a lil practice. Best money I ever spent I don't have the fancy gadgets a utility knife works just fine as a slitter. My 2 cents.
a utility knife works just fine as a slitter.
I bought a slitter a long time ago. Used it a couple of times and sold it. Might work oK on aluminum, but was a PITA for copper. Plus, I already had a knife in my belt.http://grantlogan.net/
I was born in a crossfire hurricane..........shooby dooby do
Well you just saved me $250..... Was contemplating a new tool/toy..... I'll save that cash for razor blades. :-)
Here's a little blade extender tip. When the blade gets dull on the end from scoring, take a pair of kleins and break off the tip. Viola, you've got a fresh scoring edge. Works better on the thicker blades. I have a shear now, but in the old days, I used to renew a blade 5-6 times before it got too short.http://grantlogan.net/
I was born in a crossfire hurricane..........shooby dooby do
Do you have a shear to cut your copper to size? A Wilder slitter?
How big are the pieces you plan on working with?
I have a Tapco 10'-6" and it works well as long as the pieces aren't too deep. Obviously, if you buy your copper in 24" rolls, this would be the way to go. However, I suspect that bending full 10' lengths of 16 oz copper on that Tapco isn't good for it- despite the rating. Minimum bend on that brake is 1/2". The slitters are nice attachments, but the waste cut will have waves if it sticks out past the brake too far. I haven't tried the support arm attachments yet.
The Tapco bends are not as sharp as bends made on a regular shop brake. Difficult to hem and flatten uniformly.
I've never tried the utility knife trick, but I can't bring myself to run a knife along the hinge.
If you want something a little more useful, and a lot more money, then Schechtl makes a nice, portable "real" brake without the depth limitations that the traditional siding brakes have. They also offer slitter and backgauge attachments. The bending leaf handle is in the middle, which is kind of wierd. Makes sharp bends on stock within the capacity of the brake, just like a traditional shop brake. The Schechtl will hem and flatten nicely (within capacity), minimum 1/2" for that.
http://www.schechtl.de/E/seiten/03_produkte/lbx.php
Of course, there are the traditional shop brakes seen at traditional sheet metal shops. I wouldn't get anything less than 10' long and 16 ga capacity. Dings/nicks in the nose will show up on your work. New pieces aren't too bad from places like Proformer. Used can be had on eBay all the time. Bring some stock to make test bends. Bend sharpness depends on machine setup and use/abuse. The heavier capacity brakes do better at the hem and flatten routine- especially with bends less than 1/2".
To get a wide offcut without the waves, you have to support the outboard edge with a gloved left hand. For really wide ones, it's good to have a helper who can roll the offcut under and pull it out of your way. Without a helper, unless you're like 7' tall, setting it up low so you can lean in will work for a few cuts. But doing that all day will trash your back.
The rolling wheel slitter definitely has a learning curve to it. It can make a big eff-up in a hurry if it's not on the tracks exactly right.
-- J.S.
Thanks for the tips- I'll try that next time.