Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 07:31pm | #1

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   He' going to fill the 3/8" till it equals the 1/2", with gypsum, the same material that is inside the board.

   Let him do it, it sounds like he has a good program, and is wiling to go the extra mile!

   Blue

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 09:47pm | #2

   *ShaeStick with the 54" sheets, it's still the best.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 28, 1999 03:27pm | #3

   *Is there such a thing as 54" sheets?Blue

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 28, 1999 06:19pm | #4

   *Good Morning BlueYes it's quiet common here with the renewed interest in 9 foot ceilings.Really makes life easier on the tapers.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 28, 1999 07:04pm | #5

   *54" boards are standard practice here in VA. Our local suppliers carry them. I can't see any reason to spend the time and labor ($$$) with the method proposed ... just that many more chances for flaws and future problems.Steve T.

2. 
   pat | Mar 30, 1999 06:26pm | #6

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   Go with the 54" sheets you will get a better finish job. By the way a 54" sheet 4x12 is about $15.00 here in the northwest , and there seems to be no shortage

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 09:46pm | #7

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   The only problem with the 54" drywall is that they won't fit between the wheel wells of da truck. Seriously thou, the 3/8" idea sounds good especially if setting compound is being used. Sound like you found a quality craftsman. 54" drywall may be hard to get in your area.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 02:31am | #8

   *I agree Ron, thy've been putting the rips in the middle around here for all of my 25 years, without any problems.I've never seen 54" boards, and and I doubt the stockers would want to see it either.Blue

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 1999 09:18am | #9

   *Doesn't anyone do as the commercial guys do and stand up 9' sheets?

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 1999 10:12am | #10

   *The drywaller that I use regularly has an ingenious way to deal with the 9' ceiling problem.He starts the first wall with the 1' strip on the bottom, he then starts the next wall with the 3' offcut against the ceiling, a full sheet then a 2' piece on the bottom. I think you get the idea by now. This way you never get a factory edge against a cut edge. It is a bit more awkward to tape, for obvious reasons, but he finds it easier than trying to deal with the bastard joint.Some of the suppliers are starting to carry 54" drywall here in B.C. now.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 09, 1999 05:41pm | #11

   *The problem with the vertical application in wood construction is the bowing of studs. You are more likely to show irregularities in the wood structure. Horizontally "hanging" the board will hide most bad spots in a wall, providing the installers know how to float over the low areas. Vertical installations will work, but it's harder. It's harder to tape too.Blue

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 05:57am | #12

   *Where do they get the 54" sheetrock squares?

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 20, 1999 08:58am | #13

   *Had a carpenter once who was using a drywall square (oxymoron) to mark sheet siding for cutting. Square got slipped into stack and cut into nice 27" drywall square.Same fellow had ahold of a beam saw once and ripped some 3/4 trim with it and turned 2 sawhorses into 4x1/2 sawhorses.Did I call him a carpenter?....

4. 
   djk | Apr 20, 1999 09:17am | #14

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   Albert,

   This method also creates a nice flat surface at the bottom for the base trim.

5. 
   Guest_ | Apr 21, 1999 06:43am | #15

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   Sounds like more than a few of the brothers that I know/knew

6. 
   Shae_ | Apr 25, 1999 08:18am | #16

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   We received a quote from a drywall contractor, who wants to use 1/2" x 48" on the top and bottom of the wall with a 3/8" ripper through the center. Is this an accepted practice?

   I would prefer that he used 54" sheets but I don't know if his supplier handles them.

   I understand why he wants to use the 3/8", but I'm not sure what the long term effects would be.

   I welcome your insight. TIA

7. 
   Jim_Veiga | Apr 25, 1999 08:18am | #17

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   I used the 3/8" sheetrock filler strip when I 'rocked my office and the walls looked great at first. 1 month later the joint compound shrunk leaving a slight depression. Make sure the contractor uses a setting type compound (ie Durabond) for the first and second coats. This should eliminate most the the shrinkage.