I’m extending an existing 2×4 partition wall, which only goes 2/3 of the way across an existing room, to meet the perpendicular wall, and will be including an opening for a 32″ door. The gap to be closed is about 6′. The ceiling/roof truss above is in line with the existing partition wall, and there is extra framing in the perpendicular wall where they will meet. Since the partition does not line up with any other wall behind the perpendicular wall, it would appear that they were originally meant to meet, hence the extra studs. The previous owners had changes made while it was being built, 10 years ago, and stopping the partition short may have been one of them (they used it as living room/bedroom suite for Grandma).
My question is, should I remove the (textured) sheetrock on the ceiling where the new framing goes (insulated but difficult to access attic space above), or is it OK to frame with the sheetrock still in place. If I remove it, there may not be any support for the existing sheetrock, with the trusses 24″ on center. I already have to remove some sheetrock where the partition wall ends now so I don’t have a joint at the end of the door header, but I’m trying to minimize the dust and mess, and maybe not disturb the insulation above. I’ve seen this done a couple of times by remodelling contractors, but I don’t know if it’s really considered good (or even acceptable) practice. Any input would be appreciated.
Be seeing you…
Replies
yes you can patch in like that it will not be load bearing
If it were me ,I would just span the cieling sheetrock without taking it out.You may want to look for ladder blocking between the joists,that existing wall is attached to something.If not present,A little pl-400 and a couple of EZ-anchors should do just fine.
If the insulation is mineral-wool or some other type of gitchy stuff, I would leave the sheetrock in place as others have suggested. But if it's fiberglas batt, I would cut out a channel the width of the top plate, do one of the following:
1. Lay a piece of 1x or 3/4" ply over the channel, extending 2-3 inches on each side, and set in a good glob of const adhesive. you can pull it down tight with a couple of drywall screws just set into the wood. When the adhesive dries, you can attach your top plate to the ply and frame as usual. You can then screw the sheetrock on both sides of the wall up into the plywood.
2. Cut a few pieces of 1x or heavy plywood the length of the joist space (22 7/16"?) and set them in place across the channel perpendicular to the wall, again using const adhesive. Attach the plate to said perp. members. This will help to tie your wall into the ceiling framing.
Of course, neither of these is really necessary, but another 10 years down the road when the next guy tears out what you did, he'll maybe appreciate that you took the extra effort. By the way, I try to minimize the dust by using a utility knife to cut the drywall or using a fine-toothed key-hole saw in one hand and my shop vacuum in the other.
I think it is important to know , is the existing wall attached to the cord of the truss ,cats ( blocking.) So you know where you are nailing. I guess you would find out soon enough. Otherwise I agree with everybody else.
The only thing to consider is the length of the wall and the position of the door. Cutting out and packing down in a channel, will be much stronger. of course, do you need it that strong. I might be worried about a high traffic door at the end of the new section of the wall. But then again how strong does it need to be. I would hope there is adequate strapping above keeping the cords in place too.
Maybeyou could choose a few anchor points and only remove small sections of sheetrock. Pack down and anchor. over 6' I would think 2 or 3 points would be fine.
Edited 7/5/2002 8:53:46 PM ET by Edgar76b
I appreciate everyone's helpful responses so far. To answer your question, the existing wall is anchored to the bottom chord of the truss, and is directly under it (ie centered), based on a little probing. I don't yet know how it is anchored. I am in the process of demo'ing back a little to move a receptacle and prep for the header and allow for full 8' wide sections of drywall. The new doorway, which will be low- to nearly-no traffic, will start about 18" from the perpendicular wall.
Be seeing you...