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Rick,
It’s probably easiest to modify the drywall. Just knock the edges off the drywall (I use a utility knife held at an angle), enough that the casing will span from jamb to drywall without “high-centering”. It doesn’t have to be pretty, so don’t fuss too much, but stay at least 1/4″ inside the outer edge of the casing.
Steven
Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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Replies
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Rick,
It's probably easiest to modify the drywall. Just knock the edges off the drywall (I use a utility knife held at an angle), enough that the casing will span from jamb to drywall without "high-centering". It doesn't have to be pretty, so don't fuss too much, but stay at least 1/4" inside the outer edge of the casing.
Steven
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I have used a belt sander for this purpose as well, just hold the casing in place and make a pencil line down the outer edge. This is the exact reason why I have started installing the extensions afterward, and scribing them to fit (retrofits) or cutting them 1/16 wider than needed, with a back bevel so the interior edge meets tightly.
-Rob
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Rick, I would extend the casing just proud of the sheetrock and then scribe it to the wall just as if you were installing cabinets, Bill
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Hi Rick,
I've done it both ways, depending on how uniform the diference is for the entire window. If it is close to the same amount all the way around the window, it's easier to cut a very wide rabbet in the back of the casing by raising your tablesaw blade up to about 3/4 inches short of the width of the casing and ripping the rabbet into the outside back edge.In essence you are making a built-in jamb extension on the casing. It will make the casing visibly thinner though.
If the amount of protrusion is inconsistent, I do as Rob does: I put the casing in place on the troublesome spots, mark the outside edge on the wall with a pencil, and use a surform plane to grind down the drywall to within about 1/4" of the line.The problem with this approach is that the trim isn't exactly perpendicular to the jamb when you are done, as it still "ramps" up that 1/8". This can complicate the joints at the corners, and leave the whole thing looking a little goofy if you look too close. It also makes a big dusty mess.
A third option is to rip 1/8" jamb extensions to add to the window.
Have fun!
Steve Zerby
Meetinghouse Restoration
*Rick, this not really a problem, but, more like a prevalent condition. Steven I's is an easy way that usually works. If not, score the sheetrock farther away from the jamb, but where it will still be covered with the casing. Hit the rock you want to remove repeatedly with a hammer, until it's all on the floor. Now, since you want the casing to lay tight against the jamb and sheetrock, you'll have to compound cut the miters. The easiest way (even if you do have a compound miter saw) is to cut several slices of scrap at different thicknesses and use one to jack up the casing near the saw blade. Experiment on scraps until you get the right fit at the window and you won't have to worry about goofy or sloppy joints, or, messing with setting the bevel on the saw. Do the opposite if the jamb is a little proud of the sheetrock.
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In older homes that I have replaced trim in I have found it easier to go to me lumber yard and by some extra stock with the trim that is intended to be installed.
What I purchase is pine lattice stock. Standard stock is 1/8" thick and 1-1/2" wide and heavy duty is 1/4" thick and also 1-1/2" wide. I use this as jamb extensions. It can also be used on the drywall side as well.
If the wall is uneven I will use trim screws to draw the moulding up tight. The beauty of the screws is that they don't loosen or back out with the woods seasonal movements.
*I hate to tell you Rick but that is the way of the world. Simply (easy for me to say) take a short piece of your casing, line it up with the inside edge of the jamb and scribe a line around the window on the drywall. Score along the line with razor knife and hack, grind, sand, chisel or otherwise remove excess gyp board from score line back to the jamb. This may alter the angles on your casing miters since the casing is now tipped, but simply put a block of wood under the casing on the chop saw table equal in thickness to your drywall/jamb offset to create that bevel.
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Sheetrock is proud of window jams.
The sheetrock in my new addition is proud of the wood window casing by 1/8 in, max. Not along every edge.
History--- When it came time to sheetrock time, we discovered that the window jams (which are clear pine), if ½ sheetrock was used, would all (almost) have to be planed off. Instead I decided to use 5/8 in sheetrock.
So now I have the opposite problem, along some jams.
Is it easier to modify the trim (2 ¼ in colonial pine casing) or modify the sheetrock??-- If modify the sheetrock, how do-- just chisel or plane it flat to casing???
Thanks very much,
Rick
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Thanks to EVERYONE!!!
Sounds like the way to consider is-----
Pulverize the sheetrock (which will get hidden by the trim) and then put my compound miter saw to work!
Thanks again,
Rick