Every time I do a sheetrock job, the mud has fine air pockets in it, I have little bitty holes everywhere. I know it’s coming from air in the mud, but how do I get it out? Did I put it in when I whipped it? I use a drywall whip and a large drill. Or does it just come that way? This makes it very hard to finish the sheetrock quickly. What am I doing or not doing to get rid of this problem.
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Are you mudding over raw board or painted walls? Have you thinned the mud down any? Regular, Topping or Litewt?
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I am mudding over both, raw board and painted walls. I have not thinned the mud any and I use both regular and litewt. I also have used the Durabond 20 and 45 for base coats on some jobs. But I can never seem to get all the lumps out. I have thinned in the past for final slick coating to try to hide or cover the air bubbles, but as I went over the tiny holes they seemed to bubble out, and for the life of me I don't know why.
Don't over-stir and add some dish-washing liquid! I know you would think that it would add bubbles, but it really adds for a smooth finish. I usually add 1/2 to 1 cup of liquid. Don't be afraid to add too much.
Hope that helps.
I have never tried dishwashing detergent. I have a patch job tomorrow and I will try it then---thanks for the info. Is there any particular kind of detergent to use that works better?
the cheaper the better!
I've been using liquid dish soap for years ... really makes it nice and creamy.
a mud rep told me many years ago there's already the same chemical composition in there... you're just adding a little bit more.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
I like the lemon kind. It is a nice smell while working. As far as it breaking down the mud at a molecule level, I have never heard of that. I don't know if we have a chemist on our hands or if that is just a thought. I have done commercial finishing on hundreds of units and never had any problems with this method. Jack Phares showed me this method. You may have heard of the "Phares Tool?" He is the creator. He has other patents as well. All that to say, 'you've heard it from the pros.'
On New Drywall: Use the Lafarge Rapid Coat mud, very little air pockets on the "white" version and absolutely none on the "beige" type. I like the "beige", it's like working with chocolate pudding cause it's MY-T-FINE.
On either type, just stir it a little on your mud pan with your finishing knife - don't mix it with a electric mixer in the bucket.
On Painted Surfaces: All mud's and setting compounds will have bubbles because the moisture in the mud is not absorbed by the surface..the paint acts as a barrier. On your first or second coat, expand the coat as far as you will go with the finishing, then the subsequent coats will not have any bubbles..just be sure to scrape the bubbles off with your knife prior to coating.
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If you can't get the LaFarge muds, don't electric mix it in your bucket, just stir the mud in your mud pan a little and go as far as you must on the first coat..then the subsequent coats will not have any bubbles..instead of having bubbles on every coat as you expand on your coats.
Using liquid soap is not a good idea - it destroys the mud formula. It acts as a lubricant between the mud molecules and they don't hold well. Would you add liquid soap to your motor oil?