Replies

1. 
   RW | Mar 14, 2003 02:46am | #1

   You can, but you shouldn't. By you can I mean you can use peanut butter too, but that isn't recommended either. USG would tell you to go with straight Durabond. More binder. Works well. Save your easy sand for patchwork.

   " Shoot first and inquire afterwards, and if you make mistakes, I will protect you." Hermann Goering to the Prussian police, 1933.

2. 
   Mooney | Mar 14, 2003 04:48am | #2

   	28534.1
   	Can I use Easy sand 90 for embedding paper tape??????     I will be using the all purpose premix for the final coats.

   You got it turned around . Use the regular joint compound for bedding and the easy sand to float out .

   Tim Mooney

1. 
   Zano | Mar 17, 2003 01:17am | #3

   If you have some experience in finishing use DuraBond 90 for the taping and also for 2nd coat and finish it with a light joing finishing compound.  DuraBond is not affected by humidity as joint compound is ans holds the best, just don't tape with it after about a half hour as it may start to set.

   If you are not that experienced, use DuraBond (available in Home Depot too), only for the taping and the light joint compound for the 2nd and final coats.

1. 
   Mooney | Mar 17, 2003 02:26am | #4

   Reread my post

   Tim Mooney

1. 
   Zano | Mar 17, 2003 02:36am | #5

   Tim,

   I've been going over plans all day long and I'm crossed eyed.  Do we agree that he should embedd the tape with Durabaond 90 and use light mud for the other coats?

1. 
   andybuildz | Mar 17, 2003 03:00am | #6

   I'd only use Durabond if I need to get a second coat on the same day otherwise I'd just go straight out of the bucket on the first coat and second and last coat it with Durabond.

   My experiance is that out of the bucket has better adhering qualities from tape to rock. Finish it off the following day with two coats of DB 90 0r 45 in the same day. Sanding is pretty easy.....not that we need to sand <G>

   Be smooth as a ......

                    Namaste

                               andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is."  http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

2. 
   Piffin | Mar 17, 2003 04:47am | #8

   So everyone agrees that Easysand is the last choice for anything to use for paper to rock because it doesn't have the strong binders to keep it in adherance..

   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   andybuildz | Mar 17, 2003 04:59am | #9

   since when does anyone agree on anything here? cept that you need another vacation not evolving around family bummers.

   Be unique...be in Jamaica mon,

                Namaste

                           andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is."  http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

4. 
   MarkH128 | Mar 17, 2003 04:59am | #10

   I don't think it sands that easy either. For topping, I like premix topping compound. Easysand is OK between durabond (or all purpose) and topping. Unfortunately, I have to sand a little to get my work flat.

5. 
   Zano | Mar 17, 2003 06:39am | #11

   So everyone agrees that Easysand is the last choice for anything to use for paper to rock because it doesn't have the strong binders to keep it in adherance.

   Not sure about that, I would think that the light muds are the worst.  Any setting compound or mud only adheres to the fuzz on the tape, does not actually penetrate the paper tape, that's why there now is perforated tapes.  Thus, the actual strength of adherence is the bind between the compound and the fuzz.  DuraBond 90 and the EasySands do bind better to sheetrock than all purpose or light muds, just not sure on how much better or worse the Easysands are holding onto the tape.  Nevertheless, the big culrptit in the long term holding strength of any compound is humidity and the Durabonds and the Easysands are far less susceptible to humidity than the joint compounds.

   .

6. 
   toast953 | Mar 17, 2003 07:01am | #13

   CMBB, Yes, by all means. Tape coat, 1 st. coat, then depending, possible 2nd coat wth the easy sand 90, BUT, the last coat and any texture needs to be regular drywall mud. For when the painter,   paints , any hot mud will show thru, as something not quite the same. I'am assuming your working around some existing walls/ceiling's. Regardless, the last coat and texture should be with regular mud. Relax, and enjoy, Jim J   

7. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 17, 2003 07:53am | #14

   That is way there is now perforated tape.

   I keep reading about this perforated tape. Is it like the stuff they mad 25+ years ago? Use to be all you could buy, and then they went to the solid paper.

   Can someone tell if where to find this new perforated tape? 

8. 
   Zano | Mar 17, 2003 11:17pm | #17

   They sell the perforated tape at the Home Depots, even some drywall distributors have it.

9. 
   Mooney | Mar 17, 2003 03:58am | #7

   Yes

   Tim Mooney

2. 
   don26299 | Mar 17, 2003 06:46am | #12

   Hey Tim, would you mind answering a question for me? If you use durabond for the taping coat can you successfully coat over it when "set up" though "damp"?

1. 
   Mooney | Mar 17, 2003 02:27pm | #15

   There are rules about Durabond . One of the set of rules is that it can take a slower setting over it of mud .

   Another rule is that it can never take a faster set under it such as quick set over regular mud that is not quite dry.

   Now to answer your question if I understand it properly , you can always use a slower set on top if its not dry . You just dont want the problem of putting a fast set on top of a slow set . Its comes off.

   Tim Mooney

2. 
   Jencar | Mar 17, 2003 04:41pm | #16

   Tim, I found that out the hard way...it was a small project, thank goodness. I always use 90 min and fiberglass tape for the first coat, then after it sets put a second coat of all purpose, then let it dry overnite before putting on 3rd (hopefully final) coat of all purpose...

   Jen