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I am currently renovating a house and would like to run sheet rock with the joist. The reason for this is to eliminate butt joints and the fact that I am taping this myself and have limited expierence taping and an even more limited budget, so hiring a taper is out of the question. I have all the walls layed out without any butt joints and this is my last hurdle. If strength is a concern I would not object to using 5/8 on this portion however, padding it down is not an option because I already have 7′-6″ ceiling and don’t want to lose any more height. Would love the answer I am looking for but will be grateful for any.
Thanks
Todd
Replies
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go for it! saves a lot of time finishing.
*Consider gluing and screwing the sheets to eliminate pops. Pad the joists at the seams to make it easier to screw in before you start hanging. Get long sheets and someone to help for a couple of hours on the hanging.
*lets just hope that the chippys set out all the joists correctly shall we?
*Todd - What centers are the joists on?
*Check code re: 5/8" required for ceiling.
*Ron,Joists are 16" centers and they only span 8 feet by 20 feet wide. This is the only ceiling in the house that I can't get sheets big enough for.Phill,Code will allow 1/2 on ceilings, however I am not objected to using 5/8 on this portion for the extra strength.Thanks
*If running with the joists, I would definitely glue and screw. bounce from floor upstairs will more likely open cracks in the finished joint agter awile. Another option is to run strapping perpendicular which would only lose you 3/4" of height. I admit that might seem a lot in a room that is already squashed down by being low and wide.
*If you have an 8' span, then why can't you use 8' sheets? Anyway, if you want strong butt joints, glue and screw a 4' piece of 1x4 on the center of the joint to join the boards. When dry, spray some water on the joint and work your mud hard into the joint and let it set up. Scrape it as flat as you can before it finally sets up. Finally wet your joint tape to damp and apply a thin skim over the joint. Tape as usual.The water keeps the dry porous joint from sucking the moisture from your mud. The first fill keeps the joint from sagging or bulging the tape in the middle making your finish passes much, much easier and it doesn't take a lot of effort.
*it's not that hard to finish butts- in fact I like butts.anyway- if you can tackle taping you can do butts- skim it out a little and a little and a little and there you go-no worries.I'd hang it perpendicular and learn on the jobbad drywall is just a skim coat from perfection...
*Todd - I'm really not in favor of running with the framing. Guess it wouldn't bother me as much if it were 5/8, but it wouldn't be my preference. In 20' you'd only have 2 butt joints if you used 12' sheets. Just doesn't seem worth it to me.
*You could make the butts in the space between the joist. cut a length of plywood 6" wide nail lath on the long ends on cut a dado abuot 4" wide down the middle . That will up turn the ends and you will have an indent to tape simalar to the factory edge.
*Todd1 - code requires 5/8 on ceilings2 - to see why it is recommended to run rock across the joists, try this experiment -- set a couple or saw horses 8 feet apart. on top of these, place a couple of 2 x 4 's 16 inches apart and then place a 16 inch wide by 8 foot long on top. After a days or 2, see how much the rock sags.vince
*Put that same setup together.Instead of an 8 foot long piece, put on two 4 foot long pieces, end to end.Same amount of time, same circumstances, same sag.Only this time, you have a butt in the middle that has to be finished.
*Vince,What code and under what circumstances?
*The main reason for trying to eliminate these joints other than lack of knowledge with butt joints is light floods this room in the afternoon and I don't want them to be visible.Don,I like your idea and have even seen a product that does this, http://www.butthanger.com/index.htm. It seems to be expensive and I am sure I can make something like you mentioned. I think I will try a piece tomorrow and see if it will flex that much. Vince,Have talked to the local building inspector and he says 1/2" on ceilings is typical and this guy picks on everything, he would love nothing more than to have something else to enforce, but this guy is a whole different story.Luka,I tend to agree with your test as I have not found anywhere that sheetrock is structual like plywood. If anyone has info on that I would like to read it.Thanks
*This is unusual but you can drywall across the joists but have your butts fall between between the joists. The trick is to have 3/4 plywood strips 10 or so inches wide with some 1/4 or less thick strips on the sides. These are placed above the butt and when the drywall is screwed to the ply it will bow up at the seam enough to completely hide the joint when finished. PS... NOW I SEE SOMEONE SUGGESTED SIMILAR THING.
*Vince,Just went to the truck and got the Mass. Building code book. 1/2" sheetrock is allowed on ceilings, either perpendicular or parallel to framing with 16" framing. It must be perpendicular if the framing is 24"
*International 1&2 Family Dwelling Code (1998):1/2" gypsum board is acceptable on ceilings except:where a water based texturing agent is used and the framing is 24" O.C.The building code allows gypsum board ONLY perpendicular to the joists when 24" O.C.Code books cost less than $30. we all should have them.If the framing is 16" O.C. parallel or perpendicular is to code.
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I am currently renovating a house and would like to run sheet rock with the joist. The reason for this is to eliminate butt joints and the fact that I am taping this myself and have limited expierence taping and an even more limited budget, so hiring a taper is out of the question. I have all the walls layed out without any butt joints and this is my last hurdle. If strength is a concern I would not object to using 5/8 on this portion however, padding it down is not an option because I already have 7'-6" ceiling and don't want to lose any more height. Would love the answer I am looking for but will be grateful for any.
Thanks
Todd