I’m building a desk system with shelves on top. So the base will be 30″ tall and the remaining 6.5′ will be shelves with crown going across the top. So I’ve got about 72″ to play with for the shelves. The bottom opening needs to be 21″ from the desk top to the bottom of the first shelf.
If I put in three more shelves, the average spacing will be around 11.5″. If I do just two more shelves, the spacing will be around 16″. The 11″ seems to small and the 16″ seems to big.
Any advice or comments would be appreciated.
Replies
Duh....whaddaya gonna put on the shelves, George? Huh, huh?
It's a desk system...maybe they'll be some books up there. I guess I should really say, just you're standard office stuff. I don't have any specific items in need of storage.
I'd ask the customer what they plan to store, more then likely they will change that over time, can you go to adjustable?
Customer doesn't like the look of adjustable (and I agree)
thanks
doesn't like the look of adjustable (and I agree)
Well, there's adjustable and there is adjustable, too.
I remember a job repainting tromp d'oel sky in a library that was pretty spiffy. (Also from another, long gone, era.) Shelves were set in place on flush, finished, planks between back and the back of the frame stile. Ok, so the adjusting would be a pain, you have to unstack down to where the change occurs (and you have to know that the original craftsman stashed additional finished stock on top behind the crown).
But, it was slick. There was no telling that the system was adjustable at all (it was a recent discovery by the HO after reading GF's documents).
Otherwise, it sounds like you have the dimensions pretty well set and workable. Only thing I might suggest is to have a "fiddlely bits" space somewhere in the scheme. Rather nice to have a 2" space into which to stash manuals, or cheat sheets or the like near the computer.
If you can, invest in some storage inserts for CD cases for nearby drawers or the like. Rather nice to have a place to store that bulk stack of CD-Rs & RWs or the like. They need not be "out" but it's a pain if they are not near to hand, or flop over or such like. But, I'm biased that way.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Unrelated to the question, you put a monitor on top of the desk. Where will the keyboard live? If the answer is on top of the desk, make sure the HO is ok w/ the height...
The desk top in my case is 24" deep. Room for a monitor and a keyboard.
I'm also adding a pencil drawer in the middle. This drawer will have a flip down front that could allow for a keyboard if desired.
I STRONGLY recommend an adjustable keyboard drawer, rather than have a keyboard sit on a 30" high desk. Ever see the old typing returns on a secretary's desk? They are 26" high. Correct typing height and correct desk height are two different things. Be sure the keyboard drawer has a mouse tray too, as the mouse should be at keyboard height. Ideally, it should attach to either side, so if one wants to use it left-handed they can.
The keyboard tray will just be a 24" wide drawer with a flip down front. Should be enough room for both, correct?
24" is cutting it close. 28" would be better, and 30" even better.But the real issue is height.
If the person using the desk will be putting standard US-size three ring binders on the shelves, they are about 11 5/8" tall so you will need at least 11 3/4" or more from the top side of one shelf to the bottom side of the next higher one. If they will be putting only regular books on the shelf you can probably make that dimension a little smaller.
Make 'em adjustable
or if I'm figuring this right, you'll have 51" left above the shelf 21" above the desktop
so I'd space the first two shelves about 13" apart, and have 2 more above that about 8-1/2" apart, for smaller books, etc.
That will give you 2 shelf spaces 13" apart, and 3 shelf space 8-1/2" apart.
Or something like that.
Put in three shelves. make the clear space for the first one a bit more than 12" to allow for binders. make one about 9" clear for smaller books, pictures, etc.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
So, 21", 12", 9", and 9" would be good?
IMO, the 9" space seems a little small. But I know a ton of shelves have been hung within the breaktime group. Just lookin for some good input.
thanks everyone
Somethings wrong with the math. You last said 21+12+9+9 that equals 61. But in your first post you said 72". Somethings missing. I agree with 21 + 12. Maybe another 12 then the 9?"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
That's just the space between the shelves. I still need 1 1/4" for the shelf cap on the front edge. So that accounts for another 5". My math was off before, let's see if I can clear it up.
Here's the breakdown....
9' ceiling with 30" desktop leaves 78". 3" of standard crown plus 3" of a fascia-type board takes another 6" leaving 72" for the shelves. With four shelves I lose 5" for the actual shelves leaving 67" for the five spaces. I need a 21" space leaving 46" for the remaining 4 spaces.
So I've got 46" to play with here. 13" + 13" + 10" + 10" = 46" sounds good to me.
Am I missing anything?
13-13-10-10 sounds good. that puts the larger, heavier books lower."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Incoming, outgoing, suspense, blank paper, oft used forms. 11 3/4" wide x 2" to 4" tall, with finger notch on bottom edge.
I have 9 @ 4" tall, stacked 3x3 and want another row of 'em. They hold all the above and many other small doodads, thingamabobbies, and gottahaves.
I think if I had 18, I would still want another row.
I think if I ever build my own, I'll make one row pull-all-the-way-out drawers so I can set 'em on the desk while I dig thru them.
SamT
Sam,
Can you post a picture of what you're describing?
Some of my depths and shelf lengths are wrong in this pic but you should get teh idea.
thanks for asking
JMadson,
The sketch looks good to me. Like others have already said, it's a good idea to graduate the shelf spacing (i.e. bottom shelves have taller capacity than the top ones).
Have you considered corbeling around the monitor as you have it sketched? It would give the user a little more leeway in positioning the monitor and/or other electronics, and would yield a more "airy", open feeling.
Have you considered corbeling
Yeh, actually I was considering that. The style for this bookcase is very traditional. A light brown oak, standard crown accross the top, raised panel doors, etc. What do you think the corbels should look like? I can't get my head around an idea that I like.
What do you think the corbels should look like?
I'd look for clues in the house itself. If you're lucky enough to be working on an older home, there are probably some architectural features that you can use to integrate your design into the existing style of the house.
I work on old homes most of the time, but if you give me a general idea, I might have some pictures I could post to help out.
Edited 8/7/2007 7:15 pm ET by Ragnar17
I would say the style is 90's boring. Mostly white trim, oak floors, stairs that could have been bought at home cheapo. Oak cabinets in the kitchen with corian countertops.
I'm guessing you've been in this house before, it looks just like all the rest of them.
I would say the style is 90's boring.
Great. ;)
Corbels can be very beautiful, but perhaps they'd be out of place on this house. If I were going to use them in a house such as you describe, I'd keep them very, very plain and simple. "Form follows function" type of thing.
But on second thought, you could probably just eliminate the standards on either side of the monitor in your sketch. If you design your shelving system to be like wall-hung kitchen cabinets, the standards in question won't be structurally necessary -- so just do away with them.
You'd be left with a very clean, contemporary design that will fit the house.
While we're at it, you could even consider getting rid of the end panel on the far right (in your sketch), as well as the standards on the adjacent ell. Unless there's a reason to keep the standards between the countertop and the first shelf (at 21" above countertop), it makes sense to me to just eliminate them and open up the space.
But on second thought, you could probably just eliminate the standards on either side of the monitor in your sketch
That thought popped into my head too. I could make the desk side clean all the way accross. With the keyboard in a knee hole drawer and the PC down to the left, just the monitor would be on the 24" deep desk. I might give that a whirl.
The customers liked the "built-in" look so I would opt to keep the end standards complete to finish close it in a little (customer preference and not necessarily mine)
Naw, DGF can't find the camera charger.Each shelf is 11 3/4" wide, about 12" deep, with about 4" clear to the next shelf up. Mine is three shelves wide by three tall, made out of 1/4" ply stuff.An Organiser for papers and such. There's a name for it, but I got that old hippy's disease, I can't remember. . .SamT
How about a sketch?SamT
with finger notch on bottom edge.
Thanks, Sam. I wasn't understanding the "finger notch" reference before. Now I know what you're talking about.
Looks like a good idea, and one that I should try to implement in my own office someday!
Hate to disappoint you ....
I have a similar arrangement. Here's a pic:
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/renosteinke/550desk.jpg
Here's what I've learned from this project:
1) I'd raise the first shelf a couple inches higher than the 18" it is now at;
2) Only the lower two shelves are of any use; the top shelf is not within reach, and the small gap at the very top is useless;
3) At a level perhaps 8" above the desk, I'd add a trough, or gutter, for placing small stuff; and,
4) Some means of supporting materials on the shelves along the length of the shelf is needed.
Edited 8/7/2007 8:17 pm ET by renosteinke
More bad news ....
If you're planning on using this for your computer, it will not be a very nice place to work. You need to design, to a completely different set of dimensions.
The keyboard level will be at 'desk' height, maybe a little lower, and you'll be sitting about 36" from the wall.
The monitor area will be about 6" higher than the usual desktop.
You'll want a narrow shelf in the 'knee space' for the router, modem, power strip, etc.
Finally, you'll need places for the CPU and the printer, as well as storage for paper, cables, CD's, etc.
renostieinke
I've got most of that covered, check out my photo in post 12 above.
Your other concerns have been discussed above as well.
Thanks for the input.
True enough .... I just posted my pic, and dimensions, because you are doing something I already have done a lot of experimenting with. While my efforts may not be fine furniture (bless the folks at Simpson Strong-Tie!)... they are very user-friendly, and are rock solid. I just thought a pic of one actually built would trump an artist's sketch. If you have a flat screen, then it is possible to put a monitor on a 24" desk. Best of luck in your project.
Are those cat perches in the picture?
Busted! Yes, that's 'cat furniture' added to the 'people stuff.' For a view of the entire arrangement, here's a larger pic. (Forgive the clutter):http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r138/renosteinke/550New20cat20tree.jpg
So the big question is: with the climbing facilities, do the cats still have the urge to lay right on your keyboard when you're trying to use the computer? ;)
My cat would especially like the bridge portion of what you've got there. We used to have a long 2x4 from our porch to a pergola for him. We refered to it as the "bridge of death". Unfortunately for him, it all got torn up in a remodel.
One last question: is the calico in the photo real, or is it a stuffed toy? I've never seen a calico with such clean markings.
I never meant to hijack this thread :) Cats will forever love to use computers ... let's face it, they love anything with a mouse! I actually do have pics of the components, with cats in every possible location ... but none of those pics show the entire arrangement. I have a real 'white' calico, and a flame-point Siamese. Yet, the cat in the pic is fake. Not to feel bad; this fake is done well enough that even real cats are fooled at first. It also has a pretty strong resemblance to my calico- especially as her colors have come out over the years. The 'bridge' is made from a 4" "peeler core". I have found that to be much better than cardboard tubes for longer lengths. Some areas are bare, or wrapped with sisal, as well as the carpet you see. The pieces are anchored using "2 hole straps" intended for electrical conduit. (4" for bare wood, 5" for wrapped sections).