We are stripping a 100 year old building down to bare wood.
2 questions!
We are going to use Duration. We will put it on with a brush. Will we need two coats or will one coat cover?
Any suggestions on treating the wood before we paint would be appreciated. The clapboards are very dry and some are split.
Thanks.
The Titan ControlMax 1650 cordless backpack paint sprayer is handy for medium-sized projects like a shed.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Oil primer and two top coats.
Memphest 2006
November 18th
Do you like Duration? Or, is there a better paint? Would Sherwin Williams primer be best with their paint?
Thanks.
This might sound stupid, but talk with the Sherwin Wms staff. Tell them what you have in mnd and see what they recommend. Personally I really like Duration.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Do you use a primer with it? Also, do you think I would need 2 coats? They say one will do it. They have a sale this weekend on the Duration paint and I am trying to calculate how much I need. This is an old country store and we do not want to paint it too often.
Well after years in the business , there are two different ways to look at your question.
Covered is one decription and a finish coat is another.
You can actually get covered but might not have enough millage on top to call it a lasting top coat. If the base holds which is another question to be answered , it still needs a full coat on top to protect it .
I dont think it matters whose oil primer it is as long as you use plenty of it to deal it off.
It will take two coats to fill old siding with cracks and nail holes. Like polish on dry leather?
I do like Duration but its not a one coat application for what you are doing . Its not the paints fault.
Tim Memphest 2006
November 18th
Tim, that make sense! Obviously, you are talking to a female who doesn't do the work, just supervises!
Do you really think Duration will last longer than other paints? And, another question is, does any paint fade less than others? We will be using some Craftsman colors. We made the mistake of painting a house with Behr paint and it faded miserably the first year.
Thank you.
Well , again I tend to side with Andy but he HAD a good surface to paint which is more solid than yours or so it seems.
On the old wood siding strips as you are decribing , its a rough material to fill. Duration can be thinned if you dont need its thickness but its built to do the job you have at hand .
Its a better paint than Kelly Moore but hey it should be for the money. Im not taking away from Andys choice of paint at all, but Andy is going to sell that house . Kelly Moore is a contractors line of paint and a good one . I dont list it in premium grade such as Duration. It all depends on what you want in the end result . Home owners are probably the ones that pay the difference .
The best paint I ever used for sun was PPG sun proof.
Glidden has been the worst for fading .
Kelly Moore does a good job with in reason with sun , but does not have the top ones ability in the sun.
Tim
Memphest 2006
November 18th
Well , again I tend to side with Andy but he HAD a good surface to paint which is more solid than yours or so it seems. >>>>>>>>>>
Only half my house was new. The rest was in horrible shape and had to be over thirty years old minimum.
I power washed the entire house and primed the entire house even over the old paint.
Its a better paint than Kelly Moore but hey it should be for the money. Im not taking away from Andys choice of paint at all, but Andy is going to sell that house
Selling my house had absolutly nothing to do with my choice because the LAST thing I'd cheap out on is paint especially in this hood!! The paint I used is about $8 cheaper than Duration. my primer was about $40 a gallon.
If I had to do it again I'd go with BM and I've used both. Its not the money. Its the ease of use and the end product looks absolutly amazing IMO.
But thats just me : )~>
What I saw on your house was clap board siding in my terms .
I had imagined she was talking about lapping wood siding thats 100 yrs old , but she didnt say it .
I guess from the fact its an old general store. I pictured very rough pine thats been stripped.
Im not there and I didnt see yours.
Tim
Memphest 2006
November 18th
"Obviously, you are talking to a female who doesn't do the work, just supervises!"Why would it be obvious that you are female? Is being female supposed to imply a position of 'who doesn't do the work,' Just saying, because I find such assumptions quite offensive and if you're a woman, please, at least give the rest of a us women a break.
Sorry to offend you.
..and I was probably rude in my post. No offense meant to you either, I just felt it had to be said.
Light colors fade less. (That's a joke, sorta).As I recall, there has been some research about what colors fade the worst, due to what pigments are used for colors. I think red might be one of the worst, but I'm not positive.The advice of talking to the Sherwin-Williams people is spot on. Call their 800 number and talk to someone who knows, even if you also talk to the people at the store.Put a tinted oil primer (shades of gray work well) and TWO top coats on. It's easy to add a second coat while you are painting now. Much harder later. You can roll the paint on, and go back over it with a brush to work it in. Particularly the primer.If the wood is really really dried out, you can coat it with a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine to keep it from drawing the oil out of the primer. Brush the solution on with a natural bristle brush, and if it pools on the surface wipe it off with a lint free rag. You can let it dry a day or so, but you can also put the primer over it pretty much right away.No offense to the Benjamin-Moore people, but I've been disappointed with the exterior paints, particularly their primers. I love their interior paints, but the exterior ones had poor coverage and did not seal knot holes, and generally did not seem to hold up that well. We're going with the Duration paint when we re-paint the exterior.
I have a 300-year-old house, & love Duration. If you are going to bare wood, I think 2 coats is what SW recommends. Talk to them...
Duration is like 3 mil thick. Good stuff but a real pain to paint with if you have a lot to do.
I used Benny Moore oil primer and two top coats latex. Stuff seems bullet proof and a pleasure to paint with. I've done a lot of painting over the years and I like this stuff the best.
Have fun
andy...
Andy,I see you have one end of a plank resting on the roof. Is this safe? How do you keep the plank from sliding down the roof?In this situation I would place a 12 foot extension ladder along the slope of the roof with one end extending up a few feet past the peak. Then I would put a ladder jack on the ladder, upside down, to keep the ladder from sliding down the roof. Just a suggestion.
In the photo its propped under the over hang. I noticed the same thing.Memphest 2006
November 18th
I see you have one end of a plank resting on the roof. Is this safe? How do you keep the plank from sliding down the roof?>>>>>>The plank was wedged between the two soffets so tightly I almost couldn't get it out...lol. And if you notice on the upper end I have the right side of the plank sitting on a 2x thats screwed into the roof and I have the end of the plank tied to the 2x just in case. I take no chances...that I know of.>
That place looks familiar.
but where'd ya hide all the ladders?
Hope you and Katrina are recovered from all your work for the Fest
Regardless, Lead Paint, take precaution.
butte-
What stripping processes are you using to prep the claps for paint?
After all that work taking it down to bare wood there are products made exclusively for sealing old distressed wood before primer coats.
A bird does not sing because it has an answer. A bird sings because it has a song.
This has been a long project. The wood has been covered since the 50's with a masonite type siding, I think. Mainly, the west side has the most damage to the wood. We do have some old wood we could replace it with.
I have done a lot of the stripping using a heat gun. We bought a paint stripper type thing that my husband is going to use on the better wood where the paint is adhered well. I tried various strippers.
I think we read in Old House Journal a while ago that we should use half linseed oil and half turpentine to treat the wood before painting. Since some of the wood is not in the best shape, we don't want to be stripping it every five years to repaint it. So, I was just really curious to know if other professionals thought Duration would last for years.
Thanks.
I think the main thing to take away from this thread is that all paint jobs are dependent on the prep work, no matter what you put on top. On old wood, I like to use Smith's penetrating resin to give the primer a good bond.
By all means use a high quality top coat, but it is only as good as the quality of the prep. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Thanks Mike. I will check out Smiths. This is why we are doing this project ourselves.
Like everyone says, preparation is the key. As far as paint brand, I've personally had good luck with Benjamin Moore Moore-Guard on my 1913 house....when I bought the place it hadn't been painted for decades, and was in pretty tough shape; the contractor did a real good prep job (probably 75% of the house got scraped and sanded back to bare wood) and then used alkyd primer with a latex color coat. The final product lasted for 16 years, and was actually still in fair shape when I finally had it repainted last year - I maybe could have let it go another year or two. I went with Ben Moore again, based on how it's worked out so far. I'm in Minnesota, so the house does see hard weather.
Bare wood
Set th nails and re-nail
light bleach water
sand the fuzz
Brush on clear WB Wod Lfe
Prime
caulk
Prime
Color
Color
PERIOD!
Forrest
For my "Street Cred"!
During -
View Image
After -
View Image
Forrest
Amazing Forrest! If you were here, we would hire you!
Thanks! I find "real painting" (from bare wood with a brush) so much work that I'll only do it on my own house (I'm a GC and jack-of-all-trades).
So much of old-house painting, maybe 90% to 95%, is boring prep work - I love the painting and cutting in, by comparison.
Forrest
Forrest, what paint should I use? Do you have a preference? Also, what primer? Do you have an opinion on Duration? Thanks.
I only use Porter, with their bonding primer, and have had zero problems with it, ever.
There was a pevious thread of mine that discussed a TOH article that delineated my adopted paint process - someone then posted a link to the article, I think.
Forrest
Edited 8/31/2006 11:27 am by McDesign
Thanks to all of you!
Forrest, I will look for your article.
I have learned so much here and am taking all of your advice. This property is in Montana and will someday be a museum in a small mining town, so I want it to last and look nice for quite a while. It currently has only one coat of primer and paint to take off, so I guess it was not painted until the 1950's. It is turquoise. I think I have a picture from the 30's in the Montana History magazine and it was bare wood then.
If you are stripping to bare wood, definitely do the 50/50 turp linseed oil pre-primer. The wood sucks it in like a sponge(apply liberally) and it stiffins up the wood fibers, giving you a much better surface for the primer. Light sanding knocks down the fuzz.
The last time my house needed painting I was working too much to do it. Luckily I saw a house being well done down the road.
The painter said he uses Duration, and it was a paint I hadn't worked with. But I figured, let the guy work with what he likes to use.
I'm very glad I did.
On 50 year old painted cedar shingles he scraped / wire brushed, power washed, let dry, spot primed, and applied two full top coats.
Six years later it looks like it was done last year!
I'd use it on another exterior without a second thought.
As others have said apply that second top coat. Otherwise you'll just be stopping short of a great, long lasting job.
Buic
Edited 8/31/2006 1:29 pm ET by BUIC
Prep is the WHOLE thing pretty much. PAinting is the easy part! Almost even fun (the first and last day...lol).I see too many expensive houses around here with what at first look like beautiful paint jobs but that don't even last one season before you see areas peeling.
Far as the paints go to me- you get what you pay for. Almost all the $40-50 paints are good to great. I personally think the Duration is overkill but that can't hurt. Its even amazing how long some crap paint lasts on some jobs...its all in the prep work.
And lets not leave out the glazing...redoing 30 12 over 12's is no picnic and I certainly'd never use a crap paint on those. Just what I wanna do again...ugh. Before I took on my own house I had painting estimates..you wouldn't believe how stupid some of these painters were...and i see them doing jobs all around here on high end homes.
I had two painters tell me there was no reason to prime the sashes after the old glazing was pulled out( I already pulled all the old glazing with my helper). That you could glaze right over the bare wood. Unbeliveable!
Anyway...now I know why SHG keeps suing painters.
Nice job btw.
andy..>
we're managing the exterior restoration of a place on the Historic Register in Columbus. The home of a local WWI and WWII pilot, Eddie Rickenbacker. TOH donated about 40 gallons of a new paint brand bearing their name for the project. Don't have any experience with this brand, but it might be worth a look. If anyone else has used it, i'd be interested in any opinions as well.
http://www.thisoldhousepaints.com/showExteriorProducts.do