Shimming at each truss location to get level height?
I’m building a house with double top plate, trusses will then be set. I’m checking for level top plate Monday, but I know the concrete is out a 1/4” plus or minus in some spots. Can I just use plastic shims and shim at each truss location to get correct height? Just shim up to the highest point? I read about cutting individual studs, cutting shims from 0 to whatever and sandwiching between double plates, I just think it would be easier to use the plastic shims that come in 1/16, 1/8 etc. and shim where needed. Going to use a laser level to run a benchmark.
Replies
Hey there, It sounds like the walls are already built and just parallel to an out of level foundation wall? Ideally the sills are leveled before the walls are built on top. If it's too late for that, then yes you could shim at each truss location. Separating the top plates and inserting shims between would be better if the sheathing isn't installed/nailed to both plates yet. For shims, you don't want tapered shims. I would get a sheet of 1/8" plywood or masonite and rip it into strips that match your stud width (3.5 or 5.5). Then you can install 1 layer or stack 2 or 3 where needed. As you mentioned you want to establish a benchmark for level, aiming to be within a 1/8" everywhere. The trusses will have looser tolerances than that most likely anyway. Good luck.
That’s what I was thinking. I wanted to level the green plates before I started framing, but I came into the project late.
What do you think about future builds — run through with a grade laser and check every 4 feet or so and apply shim pack, then place sill plate down? Or just place sill and level using actual level, placing shims where necessary?
Also, I think I’m going to run string line where each truss is going to run incase I need to plane down the interior walls a bit. Any suggestions?
Cheers,
Matt
If a poured foundation, heck your form grade before the pour.
Block, before you plate it.
Otherwise, perfect is close enough but a quarter inch?
I’m coming into this after the foundation has been poured. I wanted to check stem wall before getting started but everything was rushed.
I don’t know how much the concrete is out, I speculate 1/4” is the worst.
HI Matt, I set up a laser and quickly find the highest spot on the foundation ( no shims there) and mark a gauge block exactly where the laser hits. Then I walk the entire foundation and check level at each anchor bolt location (approx. every 4 ft). and make a note of how many 1/8" "pads each location needs. With my foundation guys I rarely need more than one 1/8" pad.. so I will mark "0" or "1" etc. next to each bolt so when we are putting the sills down we don't also need to be leveling - just placing the pads. A couple of things to keep in mind are door openings and specifically point loads for posts supporting beams etc. Those locations need to be laid out and shimmed if needed for level. I hope that is all helpful.