Shimming Behind Door Hinges: Necessary?
Skittlethorpe
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m installing an 3’0 exterior door in a new house using a PVC composite jamb kit. The instructions with the jamb say “You MUST use shims behind each hinge and strikeplate to stablize the jamb frame.” Are shims really necessary if I’ve framed the RO to be square and plumb and the right width? Can’t I just use three-inch screws through the jamb directly into the 2×6 trimmer stud, instead of including shims?
Replies
Probably. The shim requirement assumes that the RO ios slightly off. The reason an RO is alrger than the frame size is for shims to make it possible to correctly align the door frame. What they are saying is that it must be securely anchored, and shims is the common practice to do so.
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Thanks, Piffin. Appreciate the expertise. What would you think about no shims on the hinge side? That trimmer stud is absolutely plumb and square and doesn't need to be shimmed; it seems to me that the door would be more stable w/out shims. I can shim the strikeplate side if needed. Any thoughts? Thanks again
Skittlethorpe. I always skip the shims too. Typically, I plumb the hinge side, then fasten the jamb tight to the rough frame member.
There is some risk though. If the lumber has not dried out, it could warp, twist, bow or cup causing some problems.
I haven't had any problems.
blue
hey Piffin, you missed the essential part of the question...it's a PVC jamb....
I still shim at or near the hinges on a wood jamb, sometimes drive a 3" piffen srew (brass variety) into the jacks through the hinge...on a PVC jamb I'm thinking you better do it at all of the hinges...
Yeah, the assumption is that you're centering the frame in the rough opening, and probably the framing isn't quite plumb. If the jamb is flat against the trimmer with no gaps then shimming isn't needed.
The point is that the jamb is not designed to take the stress of the hinges -- that force must be transferred directly to the framing. Likewise at the strike.
Thanks, Dan--that clarifies the matter. The jamb does sit flush and plumb on the trimmer, so I'll skip the shims on that side.
What`s "the right width"?
A 3' 0" door has 38" RO....depending upon the thickness of the jamb material, snugging tight to the framing is going to put you off center.
So long as that is not an issue, than installing without shims is no problem.
Side note.....the three inch screw through the hinge is in addition to the nailing off of the jamg....not instead of.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Seldom is the trimmer stud plumb enough to just screw the door to it. Also, depending on the entryway the door needs to be centered to work right.
Either way, you shim behind the hinges because thats where the the load of the door is connected to the frame and where it's most likely to move over time.
Shim if neccesary and fasten well so you don't have to go back and fix it later.
Other posters have pointed out that if the stud on the hinge side is plumb then you can go ahead and screw directly to it. I agree. But unless your RO is extremely snug around your jambs, you'll now have a gap between stud and latch-side jamb. That will need shimming to stabilize things over there. You will want a good solid connection at the strike area, especially as this is an exterior door.
If the RO is more than 3/8" wider than the overall jamb width I would probably just shim the door in the centre of the RO like normal. Then no one set of screws is compromised by going through a think layer of shims. If you have a fairly snug RO, go ahead and screw directly to the hinge side framing.
I would too. Even a jack stud that is plumb can be twisted or twisting.
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In theory, yes, you could just attach the jamb to a perfectly plumb and square stud on the hinge side and shim the latch side and be done with it.
Having said that, once it's in place, it's almost always necessary to shim to get correct on a twisted stud, twisted jamb, tight reveal, or a cramped top or bottom, etc. Typically, if the sill is flat I'll simply put a door in the opening and tack it with a nail just below each hinge. Then I'll plumb the jamb and shim as necessary, wedging the jamb away from the stud with shims. Shooting two through the shims to lock them in place, the process is continued on the top and latch side of the door. So in effect I'm always starting off with the door nailed flat to the stud.
On heavy doors I'll "tack" it tight with a few screws and adjust from there with shims and a few lefty-loosy turns of the screws.
If the opening is tight or otherwise needs a centered door, I'll figure the shim thickness for the tight hinge, nail it in place, then put the door in as above.
Now if someone would simply make a 2-1/2" torx-head #9 screw I'd be able to quit grinding down deck screws to solidly anchor the hinges.
Cheers, Don
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I like to use shims on both sides of the exterior doors. It gives you a little clearance on each side and its much easier to insulate the void between the jamb and the studs. If youre too far to one side, sometimes you have to really angle your casing nails to hit the opposite stud when your naing the brickmold. I agree with the 3" screws ( one through each hinge) into the stud.