I have recently read an online article that described this jig used to make perfect shims for door jambs. Has anyone used this jig, and where can I find it?
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Metabo HPT's dual-powered plunge router offers the option to plug in an otherwise-battery-operated tool for production work.
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Buy them or ...
It was an expensive jig to boot...i could see the need if you do framing with rough or green lumber, or maybe if you live in a timberFramed home? it seemed like it is for RO's that are really whacked out.
It, the jig, might be clear in your mind but you've not given us, your readers, sufficient information for this jig to be clear in our imaginations. That said, I don't know if I've used this jig or not. Clear enough?
A bump... I saw a review in last months? FHB... and it looked pretty slick, and expensive... someone with a better filing system than me will no doubt be along soon<G>
Winterlude by the telephone wire,
Winterlude, it's makin' me lazy,
Come on, sit by the logs in the fire.
The moonlight reflects from the window
Where the snowflakes, they cover the sand.
Come out tonight, ev'rything will be tight,
Winterlude, this dude thinks you're grand.
I read that same article and for the life of me could not understand the need.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Easy to make .
Need a table saw.
Need Block of 2x scrap 8" long for the shims to come off of.
Need another block for the Pattern block ( I use a 2 x 6 x 12") that you cut a tapered wedge that looks like a shim out of the side of.
(Easy to draw what needs to be removed by tracing a pre-existing shim)
Set your saw fence to the width of the 2 x 6 Pattern block , set your Pattern block against the fence, notch facing and parallel to the blade, set your shim stock block into the wedge cut and run both together through the saw. Push the Pattern block all the way through and past the blade while sliding the shim block away from the blade once the cut is made. The Pattern block will carry the shim with it as you go .
That cuts one tapered shim, Now turn the shim block end for end (do not roll it over) and replace it into the pattern block again , commence cutting.
Repeat as many times as you have shim stock for.
Hope that is clear , hard to describe in words , but it works well and you can make shims out of any stock you have handy.
Forgot to say that the wedge cut out of the Pattern block starts with narrow end of wedge at the end of the 12" block .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
if he's talking about the same article I am ...
he's not talking about cutting shims.
think me and Snort and talking 'bout the same deal ...
now I'm wondering about the OP?
anyways ... one I read ... was about using a jig to cut out the RO to fit shims ...
or some nonsense like that.
not about just cutting basic tapered shims ...
so now ... I'm wondering what the hell we're talking about! (mostly me)
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Well if it helps any now I am totally lost .
All that effort down the drain as well. LOL
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
yeah ... but U might have actually answered his Q!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
The jig I am refering to is used to set the door jamb in by allowing you to place your shims so that you get a perfect fit every time (whether the studs are twisted or not).
I have done numerous searches for it and can not seem to find it.
Mario, here ya go:http://www.jambmaster.com/I tried to get Justin to send it to me a couple years ago, but he finked out<G>My crew hangs a lot of doors in atrociously framed openings, I can see this rig having some value... just can't see me plunking down 500 clams to check it out. Winterlude, Winterlude, my little daisy,
Winterlude by the telephone wire,
Winterlude, it's makin' me lazy,
Come on, sit by the logs in the fire.
The moonlight reflects from the window
Where the snowflakes, they cover the sand.
Come out tonight, ev'rything will be tight,
Winterlude, this dude thinks you're grand.
Thank you. That was exactly what I was looking for. Has anyone used this tool, any feedback?
Cheers
Mario D.
OK, so you install this frame in the opening -- it's presumably "guaranteed" to be square, and presumably you adjusted its size by actually fitting it to the prehung door. Glue blocks to the rough frame through the openings in the device, then trim the blocks flat using a router.Should be quick and reliable, if the frame is sufficiently rigid.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
and, presumably, it would show you if the rough opening is square enough to take the door frame...a big problem when you're trying to roll thru a house...I'm with Mario, I want to hear some more field feedback, besides a little blurb in FHB, I've been burned by them before... Winterlude, Winterlude, my little daisy,
Winterlude by the telephone wire,
Winterlude, it's makin' me lazy,
Come on, sit by the logs in the fire.
The moonlight reflects from the window
Where the snowflakes, they cover the sand.
Come out tonight, ev'rything will be tight,
Winterlude, this dude thinks you're grand.
my first thot was if the frame is so bad U can't shim it regular ...
it's probably cross-legged too.
and this thing won't help that.
better to learn to run a sledge.
I still don't see the need ... I could do much the same with my 7ft stabila, a handful of shims and my 23g pinner ... just pre-plumb the hinge side and go.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It seems his jig would come in very han dy for french doors more so than regular doors, but I do a lot of them. It's been a struggle to get those doors to line up nicely, hence I am willing to give it a try.
I will give you guys some feedback once I've used it a few times.
Cheers
Mario
There you go with that commom sense clear thinking. There are tools out there that have eliminated the need for that. <G> Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
But how does he get his 7' Stabilia to fit in a 6'10" opening? ;-)
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Take the end caps off the level. Woods favorite carpenter
FKA- Stilletto
Multimaster.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Thing about cross-legged jambs is it's not usually at the plates, of course if you wanna go banging a bow in wall, and that only works if there's no tees, hardwood or tile nearby...finesse may take a little longer, but way less collateral damage... not sayin there isn't a 4lb sledge in my truck thoughMost of the wonky openings we run into are racked...and, I've never seen a 7' stabila, mines only 80", makes it a lot easier to fit in a door jamb... Winterlude, Winterlude, my little daisy,
Winterlude by the telephone wire,
Winterlude, it's makin' me lazy,
Come on, sit by the logs in the fire.
The moonlight reflects from the window
Where the snowflakes, they cover the sand.
Come out tonight, ev'rything will be tight,
Winterlude, this dude thinks you're grand.
You know, if one were doing a lot of the same sized door in a house with wonky framing it might make sense to put together a dummy frame to do essentially the same job, but without the router function. Just bolt together a frame that provides a go/no-go on squareness and lets you get the first iteration of shimming done. You could probably figure out a way to mark 2x stock with it so that shims could be ripped to fit.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I've made the shim cutting jig many many times for the table saw. Takes about 3 minutes and a few pices of scrap. I like to make my own when I need a certain type of wood such as oak for compression strength or pressure treated for outdoor work. The great thing about making a jig is that you can make the taper what you want, slight or heavy.