Replies

1. 
   jrnbj | Sep 04, 2005 04:22pm | #1

   1/4 is good in my book....

1. 
   Abm | Sep 04, 2005 07:47pm | #4

   I used to run mine flush but after working on some jobs with a friend (who's been roofing for 28 years) who always runs his out about 3/8ths I have started doing it myself. I don't know if there is any real difference but if you run them out a little the water doesn't run down the drip edge and over the fascia board (leaving a water stain).

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 05, 2005 12:00am | #5

   If that is happening, he is installing his drip edge too tight to the fascia 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Bing187 | Sep 04, 2005 05:07pm | #2

   I was tought 1" straight out w/ wooden drip edge (1" stick) & 1/2" on aluminum (1/2 " showing past edge)

   Bing

3. 
   BossHog | Sep 04, 2005 07:03pm | #3

   This has been discudssed here at length, and I think is a topic of much disagreement.

   Personally I don't hang them over at all. I prefer to have the drip edge to support the shingles.

   When I was a kid we had a sand box with quicksand in it. I was an only child... Eventually.
4. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 05, 2005 08:12am | #6

   1/4 over the metal drip edge.

   there ... that settles it.

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   jrnbj | Sep 06, 2005 04:43am | #11

   Hey, I aready said that@@!!!

1. 
   MikeSmith | Sep 06, 2005 05:34am | #12

   drip edge eased off the fascia & rake..

    the starting shingle and first course 3/8 over the drip edgeMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   rez | Sep 06, 2005 06:04am | #13

   yep, and where does the felt or underlayment edge go on this?

    

    

   be a real righteous ready roofer

    

   as Buddha said to the hotdog vendor .... "make me one with everything"

    

1. 
   MikeSmith | Sep 06, 2005 01:04pm | #14

   3' ice & water first.. then the drip edge... you can strip the drip edge in or not .. as you wishMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   wane | Sep 06, 2005 03:10pm | #15

   as per the shingle manufacturers instructions.

2. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 07, 2005 05:09am | #16

   we're talking roofing here Mike ...

   8th don't count.

    

   U gotta pick one ... 1/4 or 1/2 dammit!

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   MikeSmith | Sep 07, 2005 06:02am | #17

   jeff.. i figured it out a long time ago...

   you tell a guy  1/4.... you get an 1/8..

    you  tell a guy  a 1/2.. you get  3/4

   you tell a guy  3/8... they actually think about itMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

5. 
   maverick | Sep 05, 2005 03:32pm | #7

   I've always run 1/2" at the drip and 1/2" on the gable ends also.

   Pifin is right of course, the drip edge should not touch the fascia. At 1/2" water will drip off the shingles and might not even touch the drip edge. Where metal drip edge is most beneficial is when there is wind driven rain it keeps water from blowing under the shingles

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 05, 2005 04:22pm | #8

   When I first learaned the trade, in Fla, we used a heavier grade drip edge called FHA approved. The face of it was just over 2" but there was far less of a nailing flange on top than what we get now. This was applied over a 1x2 wood drip edge so that the metal could be seet tight and shed water off the face of the greater fascia.But after moving and starting to find the Style D more prevalent, I got to shimming it off the fascia with the tip blade of my roofing hatchet which must have been a strong 1/4" I laid my shingles so they were barely tipping over the edge of the metal so the surface tension doesn't make the water want to wick back up under shingle and onto the hidden metal
   . I can't tell you how many roofs I have climbed onto that had too much ocverhang and the shingles were all broken down, often with a bit of rotted fascia right there where somebody had placed a ladder or where trees had damaged the edge of the shingles, or a basketball. heck, far as I could tell, some of it had to be from low-flying bats or high-flying frisbeedogs. But when metal is used and offset just a bit, there is never a problem. ( I'm even remebering Pete's recent problem with a roofer that backfired onto him. Poor metal work amplified other problems and cascaded into a major mess. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   maverick | Sep 06, 2005 03:12am | #9

   One of my pet peeves is when trying to hang gutters and the aluminum drip edge is too tight to the fascia. The water does'nt drip into the gutter, it goes behind it and you know what happens after that

   If the fascia is wrapped or made of synthetic mat'l its not a big deal but if its a painted wood construction rotting is inevitable

2. 
   gordzco | Sep 07, 2005 06:34am | #18

   What about roof sheathing? Should the plywood extend ½" over the fascia like I was taught or should it be flush? 

1. 
   BossHog | Sep 07, 2005 01:57pm | #19

   I've never let the plywood hang over. Never saw any reason to.
   The difference between what we do and what we are capable of doing would suffice to solve most of the world's problems [Gandhi]

1. 
   Soultrain | Sep 07, 2005 05:03pm | #20

   I wouldn't see why it would be necessary for the plywood to hang over, especially if you put a drip edge over it.

   Seems to me it would be easier to install the roof sheathing if you leave the fascia just a bit proud of the top of the rafters.  Then when you slide the first sheet up, it can rest on the lip while you nail it.

2. 
   Piffin | Sep 07, 2005 08:50pm | #22

   We always do the sheathing as quick as we can, to get the place dryed in, then we can afford to take our time with fascia and sofffits 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   mbdyer | Sep 08, 2005 02:46am | #23

   The hanging edge of the shingle should be biased to the center of the gutter.  As the shingles age and droop they still drop the water into said gutter.   If too short, water gets behind, toofar and it over shoots.  After all is said and done, my first shingle course is usually amost 1 1/2" hanging over:  3/4" with standard F metal, starter a quarter past then first course a quarter past the starter.  Water lands in the gutter and stays off of the fasia.  This allows for either hidden hanger  K or half-round guttering on brackets.  Extreme slopes would require adjustment but that's my baseline.

4. 
   Piffin | Sep 08, 2005 02:52am | #24

   So, how do you do it on properly designed houses with no gutter? 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   shellbuilder | Sep 08, 2005 04:31am | #25

   This is interesting, why is it that builders don;t use drip edge in south east Va. Been in the business 30 years and have never used it and only seen it used maybe 3 times. Just came back from Ohio, every house has it there.

   http://www.shelladditions.com

   Edited 9/7/2005 9:39 pm ET by shellbuilder

6. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 08, 2005 05:33am | #27

   they're cheap ...

   plus it keeps the roof repair guys in business.

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

7. 
   Piffin | Sep 08, 2005 05:54am | #28

   and the house doctors and painters 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

8. 
   BobV | Sep 09, 2005 01:56am | #29

   What's your thoughts regarding gutter apron vs. drip edge?

9. 
   Piffin | Sep 09, 2005 02:28am | #31

   ? 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

10. 
    BobV | Sep 09, 2005 04:50am | #34

    Gutter apron looks like D Style Drip edge only w/o the lip that the shingle rests on.  Pretty much just flashing w/ a 90 degree bend w/ a small offset at the bottom which prevents the water from running down the fascia.

11. 
    Sphere | Sep 09, 2005 02:04am | #30

    He he he...

    box gutter, standing seam copper...

    the spectacular points are endless.

    OMG G, Im talkin.like U.

    lemme

    tell ya

    drip edge is only an

    attachment

    point.

    For the

    real roooof.

    ( luv ya bro')

       Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

12. 
    Framer | Sep 09, 2005 04:44am | #33

    Same here in NJ. No drip edge either. I've seen some guys use it on additions but never on new homes.Joe Carola

13. 
    shellbuilder | Sep 09, 2005 04:56am | #35

    HMMM, We had a hurricane here last year and I can't think of any houses I fixed that had damge related to not having drip cap. It sure doesn't look good next to a nice 8 piece cornice.

    http://www.shelladditions.com

    Edited 9/8/2005 9:57 pm ET by shellbuilder

14. 
    MikeSmith | Sep 08, 2005 05:19am | #26

    the shingles do not age and droop unless you extend them as far as you are doingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

15. 
    catfish | Sep 09, 2005 02:32am | #32

    Fla. roofing being hurricane prone,  I use no overhang unless the drip has no overhang.  (double-break).  we are required to plastic cement a 3 inch wide strip under the starter.  stops blow-offs.  I got 110 plus mph winds higher gusts and had no shingle loss on the cap or field.

2. 
   Piffin | Sep 07, 2005 08:49pm | #21

   I'm in the club that believes letting ply hang is sloppy work. It let's that raw edge expose and wick up water. Facia and drip board are pieces of trim. Trim is intended to cover stuff like that, not expose it 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   DanC | Sep 06, 2005 04:23am | #10

   I agree with Maverick.... 1/2". 

   I've worked all sides of this problem myself (as a roofer, sider, and gutter hanger) both tearing off & installing new.

   The best function of the shingles and gutters together is when the water drips directly from the shingle to the gutter.  I've seen much too much damage to fascias and sometimes framing from the roofer putting the shingles even with, or short of, the drip edge.  The water then will either follow the drip edge down where it might go behind the gutter or worse, go on top of and behind the drip edge.

    

   Dan