I have a cedar shingled house with an old uncovered patio, 3 feet wide, supported on 16″ span, that runs 2 1/2 sides of the house. The patio decking is 3/4″ redwood, painted many years ago by a previous owner, and now quite deteriorated. I will have a few questions as the replacement project proceeds, but the first is materials.
I would prefer to replace the decking with clear western red cedar (for color consistency with the siding under the theory that less is more). The cedar association tells me that I must use 5/4″ on 16″ span, leaving me with the problem of making a smooth 1/2″ cut along 112 linear feet of shingles without breaking the shingles or cutting through the flashing or underlayment.
Worst case, I could replace the decking with 3/4″ ipe, which is much denser and should meet engineering requirements. For family reasons modern composite materials are strictly out of the question.
Any advice appreciated.
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I'm just trying to visualize 3/4 inch redwood decking. I can't imagine that was ever legal.
illegal decking
The house is full of first growth redwood and doug fir which are absurdly undersized by modern standards but have survived storms, earthquakes, falling redwood widowmakers and years of neglect.
Just to give one example, I have a roof segment which is 6/12, 12 foot span, three layers of shingles over sheathing with 2x4 rough hewn redwood rafters, a 2x6 ridgeboard, 2x10 joists and nary a rafter tie in site.
This old wood is like iron and the carpenters must have been hard men. I have long since stopped trying to use a framing hammer on these boards.
3/4" decking
I've used clear vertical grain 3/4" decking on joists on 12" centers with no issues. 16" would allow far too much flex. I'm not certain 3/4" Ipe would work, although it's clearly more rigid. I don't know of any association or product group like the Cedar Bureau that would be of much help. If it were me, I would spend some money, install a few pieces and see how they perform.
Another opton would be to rabbet a cut along the edge of a piece of 5/4 cedar so that it could slide into the space left by the old decking.
I'll note that, if the shingles are reasonably solid and sound, it would not be that hard to use a Multimaster to trim them (though it would be a hair tedious).
And here is why fine homebuilding is the best remodel website ever.
OF COURSE a rabbet is the right answer. it solves the code problem, maintains my color consistency between deck and siding, and allows me to spend an entire afternoon deciding whether this project finally justifies the table mounted router or the festool power plane I have been jonesing after.
I am 60 and the shingles are 30. We are both sound for age and I do love me a day with the multimaster, but the thought of lying on my stomach slowly cutting through three layers of shingles while sparing the flashing along 112 feet of deck filled me with dread and my chiropracter with joy.
Thanks for all your help and advice. I'm sure I'll be back for more.
Another alternative is to simply slide a narrow piece of 3/4 under the shingles, then butt full-thickness boards up against that. Would have the problem of trapping rainwater against the house, but so would a rabbet.
This is the approach I'd take. If I'd been smart enough to think of it before the other options.