Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Dec 19, 2006 04:49pm | #1

   Bump

1. 
   Devin | Dec 20, 2006 04:37am | #2

   thanks

1. 
   BossHog | Dec 20, 2006 04:10pm | #3

   No problem. I'm still hoping someone will jump in who can answer this question.
   The man who backbites an absent friend, nay, who does not stand up for him when another blames him, the man who angles for bursts of laughter and for the repute of a wit, who can invent what he never saw, who cannot keep a secret - that man is black at heart: mark and avoid him. [Cicero, 106 BC - 43 BC]

2. 
   davidmeiland | Dec 20, 2006 06:23pm | #4

   I think I understand your question. You are going to have a shingle flare on your wall above a lower section of masonry, and you are asking how to trim out the  bottom edge of the flare?

   On my house there is a shingle flare but no masonry. I brought the face of the sheathing out flush with the face of the stemwall. The shingles are proud about 3/4" right at the bottom. No trim there, just the shingles slightly proud and then the concrete starts.

3. 
   Stuart | Dec 21, 2006 04:04am | #5

   Is this what you're talking about?

   View Image

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/20/2006 8:05 pm by Stuart

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 21, 2006 04:32am | #6

   Thanks, i WAS HAVING A HARD TIME VISUALIZING FROM HIS DESCRIPTION. tHAT BARE BOTTOM IS WHAT i'VE ALWAYS DONE TOO 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Stuart | Dec 21, 2006 04:45am | #7

   In the picture above, the sheathing is nailed flat to the studs, and then there's a horizontal piece of 2x material nailed along the bottom, with a bevel cut on the outer edge.  The shingles were then nailed over the top of that, so there's a sort of triangular open space hidden between the shingles, the sheathing and that piece of 2x as the shingles go up the wall.

   Those shingles are 93 years old, by the way, and they're still in pretty good shape.

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 21, 2006 04:59am | #8

   Exactly! 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Devin | Dec 21, 2006 05:16am | #9

   Thanks for the replies guys.

   Sorry I was not clearer - sometimes its hard to explain and I do not have drawing tools.

   I'm ok building the sweep - rip some 2x's from nothing to 6 1/2 inches and sheath - good to go - what I am wondering is the "setback" from the edge of the shingled sweep to the finished foundation -whether masonry or veneer really doesn't matter. In my neck of the woods see alot of folks handle this with crown, ie the projection of the crown is the setback from the edge of the sweep to the finished foundation. I sometimes think the crown is too "finished" for this detail and wonder how they would have handled it in the day. I have seen it done this way on old buildings - there's a church with crown that has a 5" setback from edge of shingle to stone foundation but that may be more of an exception...anyway I digress...so we have the sweep - it's proud of the foundation - my question boils down to how proud and do most folks use the crown or do they trim the underside of the sweep and call it a day. I am hoping this makes sense. In my example, I have a seven inch sweep (on the rough) and six inch veneer shelf - leaving me a "setback" (could read as projection) of about two inches - so sweep is two inches proud of veneered foundation - I am wondering when other folks build this detail what is the "projection" - part of me says that two inches is not enough for  a shadow line to highlight the sweep.

    

   Thanks again.

    

   I really enjoy reading this forum in the evenings and I appreciate all the insights.

    

   Devin

1. 
   Stuart | Dec 21, 2006 05:26am | #10

   Is there a reason you have to / want to shim out the bottom of the sheathing itself?  Can't it just get nailed flat to the studs and then flare out the bottom few courses of shingles like I described how they did it on my house?  It seems like it would be simpler.  The shingles sort of automatically form the sweep as they're nailed to the house, so you don't have to do anything special.

   If you were to lay on the ground and look up at the bottom edge of my shingles, you'd just see a flat piece of 2x run horizontally along the house, with the bottom edge of the shingles overhanging by a half inch or so.  It's dark and cold out, othewise I'd run outside and take a closeup photo or two.

2. 
   Stuart | Dec 21, 2006 05:36am | #11

   Here's a crude diagram that hopefully shows what I'm talking about.

   View ImageEdited to add:  Now that I look at it, this diagram isn't correct - I left out the floor joists and rim joist, which should be in between the foundation and the stud wall.  However, it doesn't really matter since we're talking about what happens on the outside of the sheathing.

   Edited 12/20/2006 9:37 pm by Stuart

   Edited 12/20/2006 9:45 pm by Stuart

   
3. 
   Piffin | Dec 21, 2006 03:39pm | #14

   Maybe you missd it, but I thought this had been answered. Myself and two other replies commented that there was no underlying trim, just the bottom of the shingles as shown in photo.I have worked on a couple where the bottom was plain as shown and then a belt skirt was repeated with a white fascia and crown at the second floor level 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   jrnbj | Dec 21, 2006 05:40am | #12

   It's an interesting detail, but seems like both a PITA and not great for the shingles, water-wise, too boot. (No fun for the downspouts, either) I've always likes water tables....and now you can get them in Azek
   Do you see lots of sweeps?

1. 
   Stuart | Dec 21, 2006 05:49am | #13

   My house has deep soffits so that bottom portion of the shingles is pretty well protected from rain.  What rain does fall on them is flung out away from the foundation, so in that respect it helps the house, and as I mentioned they've lasted nearly 100 years this way.  It does make the downspouts stand proud of the house at the bottom so that part is a little unusual.

   Edited 12/20/2006 9:49 pm by Stuart

2. 
   Piffin | Dec 21, 2006 03:42pm | #15

   The old foundations here were rubble rock so the uneven base needed to be adressed, and we have a lot of the "Shingle style" homesAs far as downspouts, yes - it takes a few extra elbows to wind around the skirt 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 21, 2006 04:57pm | #16

   I situations like that shown, we don't usually use elboes to get around protrusions, we miter the downspouts and save the el's for drastic offsets.

   Mitering is a cleaner look IMO, not so "plumbing' looking, and we can get it closer to the foundation or underground drains and strap it securely. An important part of the job when using copper, the thieves just love stealing the downspouts.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.