Hi, this spring I will be adding a cover to my back patio and have decided on a simple cost effective option – corrugated steel.
It will be adjoining shingled gable roof. I plan on removing the eve and setting the patio rafters on the roof deck directly on each roof rafter above the top plate of the exterior wall and my concern is that I flash it correctly. My home has 3tab shingles, 1×6 fascia and 1×2 shingle mould. The patio cover will be corrugated steel and I am open to what the fascia and other components will be for it.
On one side the patio cover rake will be in line with the existing roof rake and continue at a more shallow pitch. What is the best practice for making this water tight? Example below:
The opposite side will terminate mid roof. What are the best practices for keeping this seam water tight? I understand step flashing will be used but the corner where the fascia meets the shingles is not so clear to me. Example below:
If anyone can help it will be GREATLY appreciated. And if you need more info I will be glad to reiterate.
Thanks!
Taylor
Replies
Taylor
You'll need to try the pictures again.
Download online pics to your desktop (or anywhere on your computer) or you can use photo's already on your computer-
Edit your post above or start a new reply and browse for those images.
Thanks.
Here's an image to take a look at. It's a rough idea that needs some more detail-but a start.
Sorry for the huge size................
OK. i replied to my original post.
Where are the images coming from that show the correct way to flash?
Kickout flashing
.
Attachments
Thanks for the reply Calvin. I have seen those graphics and they are great information. However, what I'm confused about is the detail at the top corners.
Your 2nd image shows kick out flashing which I can comprehend. What about the other end of the run of step flashing? How should the metal, asphalt, step flashing and transition flashing meet?
Then, how should one transition to the rake fascia (shown in the 3rd attachment) from traditional 1x6 fascia.
These are the two main concerns I have before I get to work. I've seen too many of these style additions leaking and just want a clear understanding of these details before I start cutting my house
. Also, I would like to know the terminology used for these junctions and any other random terminology that pertains to this project - to further aid my google frenzie.
Attached is the closest example I can find to what I plan on doing. Except that I will be working with shingles on the main roof. Found it on google via "cross gable lean to".
There is an alternative. Build the porch roof so that it does not need to be supported by the main house roof. In fact, the two roofs do not touch at all. Rain continues to run off the main roof and is caught by a gutter. The porch roof is higher and overlaps the main roof. There is a breezeway between the two. Keeps the porch cooler on hot days.
Although I like the simplicity of that alternative it's not the route I would like to take. I am a few years out from a shingle change. I would like to be able to shingle this addition when the time comes. That way it will look more like part of the original build. Also, I would like to keep the leaves against the house off of the patio. And cleaning gutters under a cover not be fun. Great idea and would look amazing if done like a pergola. Just not what I'm looking to do.
JT
I don't have a picture or diagram and I'm not a roofer.
But, working from the bottom up-
Kick out flashing as part of the steps from the shingle roof.
Step flashing to whatever backer (for the metal rake) you have running up the rake. I'd Ice an Water over the steps and up and over the rake framing (and go under your new metal roof area at the rake a ways).
Your backer for the metal rake should be cut short of the shingle roof deck. You'll run the step up and over that joint of shingle roof sheeting-metal roof sheeting. Seal the living daylights of the end cut and bottom of that rake backer.
Where the 3 planes come together (the shingle roof sheeting, the rake backer and the metal roof sheeting) you'll need to Ice and Water (there's flexible flashing that might help you out-it forms around corners-we use it for sill pans) so all planes overlap the lower ones.
Next, get your steps up and over the space. Think of a metal kickout at the top point of those planes.
Run your metal roof/rake trim. That rake metal will go over the steps but at the top-you should smartly bend it up and over and have that metal kick out flashing go over and around it.
Run the top metal across the shed top under your shingle area above and over the metal panels.
Run a wide strip of Ice and Water over the top of that metal and well up the roof .
Shingle.
I'm sure that's not well explained, but it should come close to a thousand words.
I'd really like to get Grant to post about this-he's a premier roofer and knows how to flash. If he contradicts me-believe him.
Thanks Calvin! I may need to read that for a while to let it sink in. I'm no roofer either. It's late now but I'll post back later.
Just,
I've done a bunch of these. Your shingle to metal roof transition should be a run of about 16" flashing metal with closures on the metal roof. Your rake will be notched and run under this flashing and be cut to fit the slope of the lowe roof. The first step flashing will be behind the rake metal and notched to slide under the upper shingle.
Easy to do hard to explain.
KK
Ken
Thanks!
Seems simple enough. So the 16" transition flashing will span across the roof panels, step flash, rake trim and tuck under a shingle?
How important is it to have rake trim?
Just,
You got iit. Don't forget closures. Don't need rake trim but you have to overhang your metal about two inches if you don't use rake. Otherwise there is a little gap where the step meets the upper roof.
KK
Thanks Coon!
Awesome! I was hopping I could do something, besides rake trim, that better matched the house trim. Also, I would like to buy as little as possible because it will eventually all be changed over to shingles anyway.
I'm assuming I can 86 the eave trim also with enough overhang and have some decorative open rafters.