I attached a few pictures of the intersect point of the dormer ridge and the main roof field of my cabin. This is the way the roofers left things after re-shingling. I want to extend the dormer ridge cap shingles under the main field as was the case with the previous shingles. I think that makes for a more leak proof intersection especially during Canadian winters.
The roof pitch is 6 in12 and the shingles are laminated. The valleys are the original metal valleys. The exposed edge of main field shingles is at the intersection of the dormer ridge and the main roof.
I believe there is some bending and/or cutting of the last couple of caps involved……a bend over the ridge and another bend and cut to allow the cap shingles to run under the main field. And I think the part of the ridge that is exposed needs to be built up so the final ridge is level.
How do I proceed to make the change? What’s best way bend shingles in cold weather? How many cuts and where should they be made on the last cap? How much do I need to remove or redo?
If you need more please let me know?
Step by step instructions with diagrams/pictures would be great or a reference to a site or book.
It appears that there is both skill and art required.to make a secure, goodlooking transition joint.
Thanks
Mauri
Replies
You're talking about converting an open valley to a closed valley. This is not something you can easily do after the fact, without reroofing the whole side.
http://www.nachi.org/asphalt-comp-shingles-part23-77.htm
You're talking about
Thanks for the reply.
Maybe my explanation wasn't clear........all that I want to do is marry the dormer ridge shingles to the main field. I want to add a few dormer ridge shingles and continue the last one (or two) under the main field row at the dormer ridge and main roof joint..The valley stays open.
Mauri
ridge shingles
Why???????
ridge shingles
Cameraman
I don't understand your question.........'why????
Mauri
He means, why do you want to go to all that trouble for a very minor cosmetic change?
ridge shingles
Why???????
Discussed on another forum
Thanks Catmandeux
That forum answered my query.
I am making the small change not for cosmetic reasons but because I think it is a more leak-proof intersection.
Happy New Year
Mauri
One could, with a single piece of flashing, and without tearing up anything, produce a somewhat more robust intersection. Simply form a piece of flashing a little wider than the cap shingle, over the ridge. Split the "top" end at the center for 3-4 inchs and slide that end under the main roof shingle (you need the split so it will lay flat), then form the rest over the ridge, carrying it over that first triangular cap. This should cover the visible nail heads and most of the visible glop. Tack down the trailing edge with a couple of nails, and when summer comes you can lift the shingle edge above and drive couple of nails there.