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shiplap siding

| Posted in General Discussion on July 27, 2004 08:54am

I’M TRYING TO MATCH SOME EXISTING SHIPLAP SIDING ON A REMODEL JOB. THE EXISTING SIDING IS 1 x 10 CLEAR REDWOOD. I NEED APPROX. 800 L.F. – MY LOCAL SUPPLIERS ONLY CARRY #2 PINE WHICH IS NOT OF VERY GOOD QUALITY. CLEAR FIR OR REDWOOD IS COST PROHIBITIVE. I’M CONSIDERING HAVING IT CUSTOM MILLED IN POPLAR. I KNOW IT’S NOT TYPICALLY USED FOR EXTERIOR PROJECTS BUT WASN’T IT A TREE BEFORE IT WAS A BOARD? IF PROPERLY BACK-PRIMED AND ONCE INSTALLED PROPERLY PRIMED AND PAINTED, WILL IT BE O.K.???????????????? I’VE USED IT ON OCCASION FOR EXTERIOR TRIM WITH NO PROBLEMS -NO CALL BACKS. I GUESS MY BIGGEST CONCERN IS CUPPING – SHOULD I PRIME BOTH FACES BEFORE INSTALLING?????????????

first timer- forgot to turn off caps lock- sorry to everyone in the forum.

mcsx35- Whittier, CA


Edited 7/27/2004 2:25 am ET by MCSX35

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  1. YesMaam27577 | Jul 27, 2004 01:50pm | #1

    Depending on your location, you might be able to get cypress for a good price. It resists rot about the same as redwood or cedar, and mills a lot like pine.

    But note that you need to use something in a clear grade. And just about anything in a clear grade will seem pricy. But, anything with knots will not be easy to mill -- even if you can find somebody who will do it.

    And knotty siding is a really bad idea -- when they shrink (and they will) they leave a pipeline for water to get in.

    Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

    1. MCSX35 | Jul 27, 2004 08:06pm | #3

      thanks, i'll inquire about cypress. I'm a totally anal finish carpenter and i usually do only interior trim- can't stand anything with knots- it's for my sister-in-law. most of the suppliers that i talk to about this cringe when i ask about using poplar- i think primarily or solely because it traditionally hasn't been used for exterior apps. in my experience, any board that wide is susceptible to cupping.

      thanx, matt

      1. YesMaam27577 | Jul 27, 2004 09:54pm | #4

         i think primarily or solely because it traditionally hasn't been used for exterior apps.

        Well, there's a reason that it has been used extensively for interiors, but not for exteriors.

        Poplar is a wood that is inherently more absorbent than most other woods. Cedar, cypress, redwood, white oak, mahogany, ipe, teak, ebony and some others are not. Of these, cedar and cypress are still reasonably available and reasonably inexpensive.

        Every now and again, I've met an older member of this industry who is also somewhat of a purist. For guys like that, everything needs to be done correctly -- not just because that's what is in 'the book', but because you'll end up with a much more durable house.

        One of those older guys (he was in his 80's during the 80's) taught me that if the house is built properly, it can survive for decades without any paint. As evidence, he mentioned that the local historical society (he was a past president) had evidence that one of the local-historical houses had no paint for the first 75 years of its existence. It was still standing, and in good condition.

        Don't use poplar on the outside. Use one of the water resistant, rot resistant woods. Because you'll end up with a much more durable house.

        Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

        1. MCSX35 | Jul 28, 2004 02:15am | #5

          thanks for the further insight and input- i'll check out cypress and cedar as alternatives.

          thanx, matt

  2. DANL | Jul 27, 2004 02:19pm | #2

    Priming all sides and edges should help prevent cupping.

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