As a DIY project I’m going to be replacing some badly-rotted eave sheathing along with some of the rafters below, and it’s gonna take a bunch of weekends to get it done. Following that, I will put a metal roof on. I’ve been wondering what roofing material might work well to overlap that eave-strip as I work my way around the perimeter over the course of several sessions, to keep rain out – but just for the short-term until the whole roof gets a membrane or whatever. This temp waterproofing method might need to extend to other rotted areas that I may find in need of replacement – maybe even the whole thing if I get fed up with the idea of patchwork. Problem is the patches, whatever they are, can’t lap under the old roll-roofing above it, since the old stuff (mineral roll roofing) is essentially fully adhered to the old sheathing – it can’t be counted on to be lifted up and over my new patch material. Slope’s about 3-in-12. Is there any standard or nonstandard short-term technique for this that can be done quickly, as in when a squall comes through? I’m hoping it’s not going to be as messy and lumpy as, say, a case of Henry’s & some kind of feltish material.
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There is "elastomeric roof
There is "elastomeric roof coating" that I've used for "temporary" roof patches to extend a roof several years. Colors I've seen are white and gray. About the consistency of thick cream and you can pour/brush/roll it on. Might need two coats in a few spots, and it's not going to easily come off of the eave strip, though.
808
Without getting under the roofing material itself, you limit what you can do.
You cannot roof goop it without ruining your patch sheeting. But I'm assuming you're going to at least felt the new sheeting to protect it.
So, why not felt it in (cap nails so it doesn't blow off-maybe use the new type "paper" that has more exposed life) then mesh and goop from the top of the old and onto the "paper". You can cut that off when you pull the rest. So, it's what you don't want to do but done right and simply, you won't be using alot of extra material or goop..................
I don't think.
I take it you know you can't get under it to slip paper underneath? And a cut quick would at least give you a straight line.
There's always tarping it over.
I kinda like the 'tarp it over' option (from ridge down) since not only would that let me keep my new sheathing 'clean' until the overall new roofing material goes on, but I'm thinking I could probably cobble up something to cover each face, along the lines of heavyweight double-strength blue tarp, using cap...screws?...or maybe 1x strips on the topside to keep down the billowing? With that approach, if a squall comes along (frequently happens) I can rather quickly button things up, try not to slide off the blue tarp in the rain, and make my exit until clearer skies...
Are there cap screws that work like cap nails? Something with a big washer and maybe some rubbery seal material on the underside would be nice.
Epdm under payment screws
Epdm under layment screws have a nice big washer for them. I know Firestone makes one. Probably more expensive than cap nails, but a hell of a lot easier to take off when you fully strip the roof later on. I had good luck with nailing battens over 6 mil sheeting for a while when I gutted my house.
I had about 25% of my roof tarped over last summer-into-fall. This is in the pnw where we get some dynamic conditions, especially in Sept./Oct. I simply battened the blue tarps using whatever scraps of ply and 1x material was at hand. Screwed them down with drywall screws or whatever. I didn't worry about tiny leaks that a screw might produce but, in fact, there weren't any.
After a fall of windy rainy days and nights and one finally gets the roofer onto the site for the new shingles... happiness.
The problem you will have with covering OVER old roofing is that the granuals will sand you cover away as the wind blows.
I think a better way might be to put a slab of OSB over your patch and over your old roof (so it overlaps a bit), screw it down and maybe put a bead of sealen under the edge to keep water from being blown in. Cover the OSB with a synthetic underlayment, they normally last at least 6 months exposed.