Just installed 11 all-vinyl windows from Gorell. Preparing for new brick veneer. Not sure whether to brick right up to the window or install some PVC trim just in case I ever need to get back to the nailing fins for some reason. What’s the customary approach?
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This will be like a "bump"--no real answer, just keeps your question around for others to see--but isn't that what "brick mold" is for--to trim out windows and door for brick veneer? If you ever need to replace the windows, it'd be a lot easier to pry some wood trim off those flanges than to start removing brick--or cutting the flanges and then how do you fasten the new windows?
As Danno said, you need brick mould. This projects far enough to cap the 1" air space and the brick butts up against it, hence the name "brick mould"
brick right up to it, caulk and be done with it, there new windows right? why would you have to get at the fin after installation?
>>why would you have to get at the fin after installation?Sh!t happens and time passes.Unless those are those new, "guaranteed 'til the rapture" windows <G>
With my mouth I will give great thanks to the Lord; I will praise Him in the midst of the throng. For He stands at the right hand of the needy, to save them from those who would condemn them to death.
- Psalms 109:30-31
Never, ever brick right up to the windows. There should be a half-inch space under the sill and one-quarter inch at both sides and the top. The gap should have backer rod, then caulk. READ the directions of the manufacturer of the window.If you brick right up to the window you WILL have problems in the future. As the house settles the front edge of the window gets 'caught' on the bricks causing the sill to crown and distort. On double-hung windows you'll notice air leakage at both sides at the bottom of the lower sash. Also, the sash locks are hard to lock and will break. Casement windows will be difficult to operate as the bottom of the sash will rub the crowned sill....then the operators break.It's very frustrating as it seems no one reads the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the window! This problem is so common this condition is termed 'BRICKBOUND'.......get it?.View Image
I should have been more clear in my first statement, i forget that we are all on here to learn new things. You would follow the manfs. directions which would tell you to leave a certain size space between brick and window frame for caulking. We do alot of brick tear outs around here to change windows and doors for whatever reason. That would be an easy solution to get the windows out if need be in the future. Cutting them out. Just find out the mortar mixture contents from the brick layer( so you can make the same in the future ).
BRICK RIGHT TO THE WINDOW , MAKE SURE YOU FLASHED THEN RIGHT .
Flash the window, then brick moulding.
It is going to affect the appearance of the house.
What do the houses in the neighborhood look like?
If you mock up one window w/ brick next to it and do
one with trim, I think you'll like the trimmed out look better,
but that's personal preference... ;) Use synthetic trim, for longevity.
Mclaren
The reason I asked about this is because the newly constructed homes in my area appear to have the brick veneer running right up to the windows. I'm assuming the windows they install also have nailing fins, but the contractors don't seem to be too concerned about maintaining access to them. I always build things with future access in mind. Bricking right up to the frames gives a nice clean line, but I'm not sure it's a good idea to bury the fasteners behind a brick wall.New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Most homes here have brick facade on first floor. The brick typically goes right up to the window. I have seen them stop the brick 12 to 14 inches to each side of the window when a fake shutter will be "hung". (brick, shutter, window, shutter, brick). Shoot one of three windows on the front of my own house is like that.As far as access to fasteners, to remove the window you basically destroy it removing the glass and then cutting the frame and tearing the flange off the nails towards the center of the window. The "replacement" windows have no flange and are screwed through the sides into the jambs (screws parallel to the plane of the glass) Then trim is applied to cover any resulting gap that is not appropriate for caulk. TFB (Bill)
DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.FLASH VERY WELL,HAVE A GOOD MASON,URETHANE CAULK FROM EDGE OF WINDOW TO VENEER YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY REASON TO GET BACK TO THE FLANGE.
HAS BEEN ALONG TIME SINCE I HAVE SAW BRICK MOULD ON A WINDOW.NEW AGE DUDE!CLAD,VINYL!DO IT RIGHT JUST TO JUSTIFY APPEARANCE.
dont brick em in, I install alot of windows, replacement really. Gorell is a great brand as long as you did the install yourself, If you had them installed for you you paid too much. The window biz is a overpriced industry. Dont brick em in, you may have to replace the window one day and have to tear out the brick to get at em. The vinyl you have chosen may yellow over time. even though its warrantied against that.