Replies

1. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Jul 26, 2008 05:40pm | #1

   Welcome Rebecca of Sunnybrook Institute for the forsaken homemaker,

   Do y'all own a wet-dry shop vacuum?  That's one of the better ways to get the water out from under the track.  You could also use compressed air, if y'all have a compressor and the proper nozzle to blow it out.  I supposed you might also try absorbing it with paper towels or some other absorbent material. 

   There's really no harm in the water being under there, as long as there's no holes drilled that would allow the water to get below the shower.  In any event, if you do a good job of re-chalking the track, the water probably won't get back in there.

   One small tool that will help is a small rubber square with different shaped corners, made just for molding chalk after it's been applied.  It's used like a scraper, to pull the excess chalk out of 90 degree corners, leaving a perfect bead of chalk.  I don't recall the name of this tool but I imagine any paint store employee should know about it.

    

1. 
   user-162837 | Jul 26, 2008 06:18pm | #2

   Thanks, but alas I do not have a shop vac or compressed air, 3 rolls of paper towels from the pantry will have to do it!Further developments..... as I am working on the inside edge I am noticing a greyness developing behind the caulk on the outside edge of the frame..... I had not figured on removing that caulk too!!Becky

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jul 26, 2008 06:24pm | #3

   I don't think it's a good idea to caulk the outside of the shower frame.  All of the water should be redirected into the tub/shower by the caulking on the inside.  If that caulk should fail, you'll be aware of the problem that much sooner.

   So yeah, I think you should figure on removing that caulk.

   To help dry things out, without a shop vac, use some rubbing or denatured alcohol and a hair dryer.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jul 26, 2008 06:48pm | #5

   "I don't think it's a good idea to caulk the outside of the shower frame. All of the water should be redirected into the tub/shower by the caulking on the inside. If that caulk should fail, you'll be aware of the problem that much sooner"That might not be worded the best.There are different style of doors and they are caulked differently.But in general the exterior side of the door frame can be caulked on both the bottom and the sides.It is the interior side that you need to be careful of.I would caulk the inside of the sides, but except for the bottom 1". And nothing along the bottom on the inside.You want any water that gets into the base to drain back into the shower and not out on the floor.I recaulked a shower just like that. It was surprising how much water was trapped under the bottom.It was still draining when I left and told the HO that was the way that it was suppose to be.BeckyThere is no SOLVENT for silicone caulk. Hower there are products that will help break it up.First you want to remove the bulk with razor or utility knife. Running the blade parallel to the surface you won't scratch it.Then use a caulk remover.The best by far that I have found is LIFTOFF Silicon Caulk and Foam remover. Lowes used to have it (by the paint removers) but have discontinued carrying it. I think that HD used to have it, but check. Also the paint and hardware stores.Lowes still has other Liftoff products, but not the silicon caulk remover.And if you can't find any of those products there are others. Lowes has then by the caulks.And I have used Goof Off. But the Liftoff is much better.Dribble a little of the fluid on it and then start scraping. And keep at it. Then wet a paper tile with the fluid and rub.The fluid makes the caulk gummy or breaks up into little bits.For the areas that you are going to recaulk then after you get off all of the old use rubbing alcholol to clean it up before putting down new..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

   Edited 7/26/2008 11:49 am by BillHartmann

1. 
   atrident | Jul 26, 2008 07:33pm | #6

      Use Goof off in a well ventilated situation,like with a fan blowing it away.Most people react to the vapors. Another chemical that works is methyl chloride,available in paint removers and gasket removers.That stuff will burn your hands so wear gloves and  dont get near plastic and test on a small spot first. I do what Bill said,dont caulk the inside of the bottom channel. The caulk should be as small as possible,like the thickness of a pencil lead.

2. 
   user-162837 | Jul 26, 2008 09:18pm | #8

   To Bill et. al. Y'all are the best!!Here is the progress report thus far...
   I have removed all the old silicone from the bottom inside edge, and partway up the inside sides (as far as the black spots). I figured out that the bottom track was not screwed down to the fiberglass (just the guide to the aluminum). Also figured out that I could gently pull on the track and tilt it just enough to fit a plastic knife wrapped in a wet rag between the track and the fiberglass.... oh the yuck that I removed! Quite a death blow to my housewifely pride!! Last round of swipe with bleach!! I was toying with the idea of not caulking the bottom (how else would it ever dry out?)when lunch time called me back downstairs for a bite and quick look here!!Maybe I can find the receipt and return the unopened caulk!!Thank you all so much!
   Becky

2. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Jul 26, 2008 06:31pm | #4

   I agree with Don.  There shouldn't be any chalk on the outside of the aluminum frame.  That's what I always read in the instructions for installing such frames.  That'll eliminate the mold problem, rot thar.

    

2. 
   Matt | Jul 26, 2008 08:19pm | #7

   >> how can I ever get it all out (and disinfect!) and have a perfectly dry surface for the new caulk? <<

   Elbow grease and a hair dryer?