Shower drain connection – PVC/Cast Iron
I’m in the process of building a morter bed shower pan. I’ve read the 2 articles on doing so in FINE HOME BUILDING. My situation is slightly different. I live in Tampa (no basement) and will be building the shower on a slab. What’s available for a drain is a 2″ cast iron pipe coming out of the slab. The Home Depot guy has told me to connect the 3 piece PVC shower pan drain to the pipe using a 2″ rubber PlumbQwik. Problem is that it adds height to the drain i.e. a thicker pan is required. Any reason why I can’t connect the 2 using epoxy? PVC drain direct to cast iron pipe would lower drain height by a couple of inches.
Also, Home Depot recommended building the morter bed with thin set instead of portland cement. Any comments here other than the cost?
Thank you.
Matt
Replies
Lots of drain pans install by fitting the pan over the drain stub and then installing a rubber "donut" in the crack between the stub and the pan drain.
Have never tried epoxy from cast to plastic, so I don't know if that'l work. More Important, do you know if there is already a trap below the slab? If there is one how deep? Chopping a little concrete and lowering the drain is no biggy.
If there is no trap and vent , you will need to do a little more concrete chopping to provide for it.
The mortor for the sloped pan is sand & portland, not thinset. For a properly done shower base there is a lot of details that you can read up on. Relying on an orange aproned buffoon for advice will be a recipe for disaster.
A fernco connection is what you want to use. Should not add height.Regards, Scooter "I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Thanks Scooter. I'll check it out.
>>Relying on an orange aproned buffoon for advice will be a recipe for disaster.
Words to live by.
I have not read FHB in a while but last time I saw a shower article from them there were several points I did not agree with. IMO you are best served by going to the John Bridge website and spending some serious time reading the shower threads. It is the best source for current info on tile.
http://www.johnbridge.com
Thanks David. I'll check out the other website for a 2nd opinion.
Jayzog:
There's a vent pipe and I assume a trap. I'll investigate the trap further while cutting the concrete. Thanks for the heads up on the thin set. I'll do the right thing there.
Happy Holidays,
Matt
He was telling you to use a Plumbquik connector because the cast iron that you have sticking out of the floor will not make a watertight seal with your three piece pvc shower pan drain. Since this will make your drain stick out of the floor much higher,there will be the need to rent a jack hammer, break up the concrete, and make those connections further down under the slab. You're goal here is to connect a 2" pvc pipe to your existing cast iron pipe, that's where the Plumbquik (or Fernco) comes in. After you've made the connections and lined it all back up in the correct position, fill it all back in with cement and now your pvc shower pan drain will properly connect to your new pvc floor drain.
Thanks Mike. I'll rent the jackhammer and start chipping.
Renting a jackhammer is certainly an option. Even though I have a bosch demo hammer I would most likely grab a circular saw with a cheap diamond blade, make a few plunge cuts around the drain and just use a hammer and cold chisel to knock out some concrete.I would worry about cracking the cast iron with the jackhammer if I hadn't first made a few saw cuts to give the concrete somewhere to move to as it cracks and chips.I second the motion that you visit the john bridge forum.Karl
I just came accross this link and thought it might be Helpfull.
http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html
I saw" this old house.today " (I don't like their magazine, it's aimed at the decorator type home owners) and they used a styrofoam type pre made base that is presloped...cut to fit ... thin set it in. add the pink waterproof membranes ... looked a lot easier than the old tarred in or membrane and concrete motor based I have done in the past
Perhaps those membranes you saw were orange? (schluter)
Saw the episode..it was also featered with Tommy on ATOH. It is the Shutler product.
Looks like it is pretty well thought out and well leak proofed. A LOT of thinset is used however