Replies

1. 
   mrmojo | Apr 24, 2006 07:45pm | #1

   you havent had a shower in about 4 weeks?

   Due to recent budget cuts the light at the end of the tunnel will be turned off until further notice.
1. 
   IMERC | Apr 24, 2006 07:59pm | #2

   Due to recent budget cuts the light at the end of the tunnel will be turned off until further notice.

   that light is actually a kid on a moped with a busted tail light lense...

    

   or a frieght train's head light..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   KirkG | Apr 24, 2006 10:57pm | #3

   Burn in a little thinset and then build up with deck mud. Take the time now to smooth any imperfections.

2. 
   sungod | Apr 24, 2006 11:31pm | #4

   All you have to do is use exactly the same mixture you used for the initial bed you already used. I you are worried about bonding of a thick layer and thin layer, all you have to do is wet the first layer before spreading the 2nd layer.

1. 
   brie | Apr 25, 2006 06:02am | #6

   i didn't put in the initial mortar bed, i had that part done. you're correct, i was concerned about the thinner layer adhering well to the original bed. is there a particular kind of mortar i should buy to do this 2nd layer? i want to use only the best products. thank you for your input, it is much appreciated.

1. 
   sungod | Apr 25, 2006 07:11am | #9

   Thinset always stick very well without cracking when mixed very stiff.
   What USA said was important, hopefully the membrane was installed over a sloped base to the drain. There are weep hole where the top flange meets on top of the waterproof membrane. If you shine a light on the inside of the drain, you should not see 3 holes with tar coming out, you may see mortar coming out.
   If the weep holes are sealed or the pan is not sloped, the mortar under the tile will always remain moist, resulting in floor grout always remain moldy.

3. 
   BryanSayer | Apr 25, 2006 12:39am | #5

   Anyway to lower the drain cap? When we did ours, I had the plumber just stick the drain piece up a foot or so, and then the tiler cut the drain at the height she needed.

1. 
   brie | Apr 25, 2006 06:03am | #7

   i don't think lowering the drain is an option at this point, but thank you for the input.

1. 
   EricPaulson | Apr 25, 2006 01:37pm | #10

   The drain pipe can be cut using an inside cutter.

   It's sop for any plumber.

   You are not going to get anything to stick that thin. Perhaps a couple of layers of thinset.

   Good luck.

   Ericyourcontractor@aol.com

    

    

   It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

    

    

    

1. 
   brie | Apr 25, 2006 04:40pm | #11

   the floor was pre sloped before the hot-mop water barrier was done. i hope that the weep holes aren't clogged by the mortar bed. i'll look in the drain to see if i can see tar or mortar coming through. okay, at this point it looks like i should either ask my plumber to lower the drain -or- use a stiff layer of thinset to install the pebble tiles onto. thanks all.

4. 
   USAnigel | Apr 25, 2006 06:15am | #8

   You do have a pre-slope under the pan liner? You should be able to screw the drain in deeper to get the right height. if you don't have a pre-slope then you had best pull out and start again. or do it all again in 5-7 years with all the mold and trapped wet and rough floor as the minerals are pushed up through the tile joints.