Replies

1. 
   homohabilis | Jan 04, 2006 07:46pm | #1

   I have used the Wingits, http://www.wingits.com, thingies, expensive but quite incredible.

1. 
   DanH | Jan 04, 2006 08:11pm | #2

   Yes, Wingits is the way to go. The tile needs to be sound, of course (not spongy).When installing, first drill a small hole and feel around with a bent wire to make sure you have clearance. If you hit a stud you can either move to land dead on the stud (and screw to the stud) or move the other direction to keep clear of it so the Wingit can expand properly.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   DanH | Jan 04, 2006 08:12pm | #3

   PS: Spend the extra money for the carbide hole saw. Well worth the investment.
   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   Dave45 | Jan 04, 2006 08:24pm | #4

   Bingo!!  That looks like what I need. 

   BT comes thru again...............gotta love it.

   Thanks

   Dave

1. 
   DanH | Jan 04, 2006 09:16pm | #5

   Note that they ARE expensive (something like $35 EACH), and a little hard to find. A local shop near here carries them, but when I tried to find some in Louisville I couldn't. (And a couple of places that install bars admitted to using regular toggle bolts!)

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

2. 
   DanH | Jan 04, 2006 09:45pm | #6

   Also worthwhile buying are the bars themselves that the Wingits site sells. Far better quality than stuff from HD or Lowes.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

2. 
   jimz | Jan 05, 2006 02:15am | #7

   Dave:

   I've installed grab bars for our local council on aging.  For preformed tubs, we always go the Winget route.  Won't find them at the big box store, but most larger plumbing supply stores will carry/get them.  Once they sold me a "non Winget" grab bar, and it didn't work, so make sure that you get the bar supplied by Winget.

   For those clients who had tile over plaster or wall board, we'd use hallow wall anchors.  Once the client told me where they wanted the bar, I'd start with a 1/8 " masonry drill.  If I got "lucky" (i.e. hit a stud) I'd then use the SS screw provided.  If not, I'd check with a bent wire to see if there was clearance for the anchor.  If so, I'd continue drilling the other two holes, checking for wood and/or anchor clearance.  Once all the small holes were drilled, I'd enlarge them with 1/4'" dill bit if the hollow wall anchor was going to be used.  Once through the wall, I would check the depth to see if a long or short hollow wall (3/16") anchor was needed.  Never had a call back with either method.

   Rookie

1. 
   Dave45 | Jan 05, 2006 02:33am | #8

   Thanks Rookie,   I'll give it a go.  Most o fthe grab bars have three holes in each of the wall plates and I've wondered if three wall anchors would work.  My concern is that they're pretty close together and might rip out if someone really grabs the bar during a fall.

   This installation is for a friends Mom who is getting a knee replacement soon.  She isn't very big, so maybe I'm overthinking this - lol.

1. 
   DanH | Jan 05, 2006 02:37am | #9

   You can't reliably achieve full "government standard" strength when going the toggle bolt route, and you're risking slow breakdown of the wallboard with repeated stresses.Another advantage of the Wingit is that it's inherently water-tight. It includes a gasket that seals tightly all around. Otherwise you need to fill around the screws with silicone.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?