Replies

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Dec 19, 2003 03:21pm | #1

   That has no sand in it.  Just portland and lime.  I think that would be too hard and prone to crack.  I've always used something with sand in it.  2:1 sand to mix or something like that.

1. 
   brownbagg | Dec 19, 2003 03:49pm | #2

   I batch an area in my yard with a bag, it look good, couple weeks later it crack like crazy, so this weekend replacing. I would just use a bag of portland on the pan

   The best employee you can have but you wouldn't want him as a neighbor " He the shifty type"

2. 
   cutawooda | Dec 19, 2003 05:17pm | #3

   this masons mix does have sand in it...I think it is for masonry applications. I did one with a sand mix once and it turned out fine...I just got to reading an article in FH about shower pans and the guy called for 4 to one mix (sand/portland). I thought that the sand mix might be to too sandy.  So thenI got to double thinking myself and decided to ask the forum...I double think myself alot...its a curse. It handcuffs me.

   I hate regrets.

   thanks

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Dec 19, 2003 05:47pm | #4

   I use a really stiff sand/portland mix (around 4:1) for the bed under the membrane, but think a less sandy and stronger mix is better to lay the tile on top of the membrane.  Maybe 2.5:1  The mason mix I buy is just cement/lime and intended for you to mix in your own sand.  If yours has sand in it already, it should probably work fine.  You wouldn't actually need the lime.  That's more to make it sticky so it works well as mortar.  If you have it laying around, I don't see a problem using it.  I just buy portland and sand when I need it.

2. 
   homebaseboston | Dec 19, 2003 05:48pm | #5

   Use the Quickcrete "SAND MIX" if you're using standard Home Depot Stuff.  Laticrete makes a nice Thick Bed Mortar Premix I like, if cost isn't a big issue.

   Good luck!

   Brian

   _____________________________
   HomeBase
   ________  Kitchen & Bath Builders, LLC

   Brian Roberts, Manager

1. 
   Scooter1 | Dec 19, 2003 09:12pm | #6

   Even the "Sand Mix" has too much Portland in it. I would go to a Masonry supplier and get "Dry Pack" a mix of 5 to 6 parts sand to 1 part portland. In a pinch, you can use Sand Mix, but use it 2-1 with sand, 2 parts sand to one part Sand Mix.

   You really want a surface that is mostly sand and almost no cement. If the sand would stay put, the ideal surface would be in fact, just sand. But it doesn't so you need just a tad of portland cement to hold it together. Cement absorbes water, and when it dries, it shrinks and may crack. Ya'all want a seamless setting bed, with no cracks, humps or dips, all of which will occur with a mainly cement based product.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   davidmeiland | Dec 20, 2003 11:32pm | #7

   Tile suppliers sell 'deck mud' in sacks, and it's mostly sand. You can pack it very tightly by pounding it down with your wood float. It does not 'pour' in any sense of the word, but it does pack so tightly that you can walk on it immediately after packing and not leave an imprint. You can also make it yourself as others are saying at about 5:1, sand:portland. Thing is, you need 'sharp' sand. I've looked at a lot of sand in building materials yard and I never noticed any that was sharp, so I buy deck mud in sacks out of paranoia.

1. 
   donpapenburg | Dec 21, 2003 04:23am | #8

   Are you saying that you should use a sand like Silica sand  for a better packing than to use masons sand. (the brown stuff)

1. 
   brownbagg | Dec 21, 2003 07:05am | #9

   our mason sand is white

   The best employee you can have but you wouldn't want him as a neighbor " He the shifty type"

2. 
   davidmeiland | Dec 21, 2003 06:56pm | #10

   Dunno. Only term I know is 'sharp' sand, and that's from Michael Byrne's book. Never needed enough to fill my pickup with it, so I buy the deck mud in sacks.